180 degree thermostat

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SPLETS

Sorry, guy's, you have probably beat this to death but I cannot find it on the site.  Does anyone know the Universal and Kubota part numbers for a 180 thermostat for a 25xp?  I have found the 160, but no numbers on the 180 degree thermostat.

Thanks

SPLETS

Craig Illman

#1
15531-73010

1. Download the Kubota Parts manual  http://www.c34.org/manuals/KubotaParts-D950.pdf
2. Go to the TractorsMart website http://www.tractorsmart.com/enter.htm
3. Select Parts for All Kubota Products
4. Select Enter Parts Numbers Here, you'll get any updated supersessions for the part number from step 1.

The standard non-marine thermostat is a 180.

Hope this helps.

Ron Hill

SPLETS : Just so you know, Universal elected to put the 160 degree thermostate in all of the engines they built at the factory.  Westerbeke has continued to do the same.  A thought
Ron, Apache #788

Craig Illman

Yes, it's my understanding that salt precipitates out of seawater at something less than 180 degrees, so you need to be diligent about using Ron's Lime-away procedure. I didn't have any issues in the two to three years I had a 180 degree thermostat in my engine, but Puget Sound is pretty cool year round. I even had a lower flow Oberdorfer for the last one hundred hours, before I sold the boat last summer.

SPLETS

I am in fresh water. I just do not seem to get much heat from my Seaward water heater.  I talked to them today and they recommended the 180 thermostat.  I sold my C-34 and now have a Capri 26, but this seems to be the best site for information as my M2-12 engine uses the same thermostat and the 25XP.  Seaward also asked me to insert a 6" clear hose in the return line to see if we are getting much flow??

Ron Hill

#5
SPLITS : Sorry that I didn't catch your reference to a M25 and NOT an M25XP.  I believe they are the same thermostate (interchangeable), but you may want to check.  
You'll need to look at the Kubota 850 engine if you are really talking about an M25 engine.  A thought
Ron, Apache #788

lazybone

Quote from: SPLETS on January 17, 2011, 05:49:37 PM
I am in fresh water. I just do not seem to get much heat from my Seaward water heater.  I talked to them today and they recommended the 180 thermostat.  I sold my C-34 and now have a Capri 26, but this seems to be the best site for information as my M2-12 engine uses the same thermostat and the 25XP.  Seaward also asked me to insert a 6" clear hose in the return line to see if we are getting much flow??

Agreed ++++

...and the lion's share of the credit for that has to go to Ron and Stu.   :thumb:
Ciao tutti


S/V LAZYBONES  #677

Paulus

Splets,
I tried the same think 2 years ago.  I went from a 160 to 180 and half way through the summer, I switched back.  From my experience and observation, I did not get warmer water but did notice that the engine room seemed hotter.  Just a thought.
Paul
Cool Change 1989 #944

Ken Juul

The hotter thermostat may not help much.  The water heater only gets full flow after the thermostat opens.  Even then it will take running the engine about an hour to get really hot water.  The higher temp will delay the thermostat opening so for short engine runs you may not be getting ahead.
Ken & Vicki Juul
Luna Loca #1090
Chesapeake Bay
Past Commodore C34IA

Jim Hardesty

A question for you that have tried the 180 deg thermostat.  Did you notice any increase in engine performance or economy?  I'm in fresh water so it's something I might try.
Jim
Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA

SPLETS

My engine reaches the 160 temp in less than 10 minutes of running, would it take much longer to get to 180? 

Ken Juul

10 minutes seems fast to me, but it all depends on your conditions.  But it could also be in error (bad sensor).  If the water is really 160, the thermostat should have opened and the hoses (water heater and heat exchanger) leaving the thermostat housing should be getting hot.  Something to check.  Also if you have air trapped in the system, it will collect in the thermostat housing causing false temp readings and reducing flow.  You may want to burp your water heater lines (use the search function) and then run the engine to temp and use the petcock in the thermostat housing to remove any trapped air.
Ken & Vicki Juul
Luna Loca #1090
Chesapeake Bay
Past Commodore C34IA

SPLETS

I have burped the air out of the thermostat housing and I have also have a petcock to burp the hot water heater too, no air?

Stu Jackson

#13
Here's an earlier discussion about thermostat temperatures:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3133.0.html

From a heat exchange point of view for the domestic hot water, the hot water will get hotter with the higher temperature thermostat.  By 20 degrees.  I've made the case that hot water will last longer with a higher storage temperature since you'll mix hotter water with more cold water and the 6 gallons of hot water will last longer.

Others have correctly said that that high a hot water temperature could be dangerous (your six year old granddaughter could hurt herself badly).

As far as the engine is concerned, it doesn't seem to matter.

Your boat, your choice.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

mainesail

Quote from: Ron Hill on January 17, 2011, 05:32:44 PM
SPLETS : Just so you know, Universal elected to put the 160 degree thermostate in all of the engines they built at the factory.  Westerbeke has continued to do the same.  A thought

Not all engines run a 160 stat but most Universal engines do ship that way. Many Westerbeke engines run a 180 right out of the factory, my 44B Four does, and many Yanmar engines run a 185 stat. That being said for an M-12 I would look into how it's plumbed first as it should give plenty of hot water with a 160 stat unless it's raw water cooled.
-Maine Sail
Casco Bay, ME
Boat - CS-36T

https://marinehowto.com/