Difficult Raising Main Halyard

[Kevin Henderson]

I am finding that my Main Halyard is very difficult to raise and lower.  I have looked at previous posts on this subject and have a list of things to investigate the possible cause (i.e. raising the halyard without the main to discern the problem lies in the track or main and not the mast head sheaves)  I intend to do my checks this weekend, and hopefully the issue will be corrected with a liberal application of sailkote to the track. 
My question is this:  If the problem appears to be with the sheaves at the top of the mast, is it an absolutely necessity to drop the mast to effect repairs and install new sheaves?  Or, can a rigger (or myself) install new (Ball bearing) sheaves without having to go through the expense.  Has anyone heard of this being done and the issues involved?
I'm finding myself utterly dependent on the wealth of knowledge I receive here in the proper care and feeding of Pau Hana 

[gwp]

Kevin...had the same problem with a c30 once. The lube didn't help. Unless you want to invest in a track and car system, you might want to install a block at masthead and another on mainsail headboard to add purchase to assist raising main. Only disadvantage is you have twice the halyard length but would sure be a good remedy. All this is assuming your masthead sheave is in good condition. If it needs replacing it can be done at masthead without unstepping mast. Good luck

[Mike and Joanne Stimmler]

Kevin,
I can refer you to a rigger in SD that I have been happy with if you want to use one.

Mike

[2ndwish]

Kevin- We've noticed the same thing on 2nd Wish. In our case there seems to be 2 issues. 1) Sail track fouling (near the boom) due to a recent mast repainting and 2) binding at the base of the mast near the turning block. Can you raise the sail easily by hand at the mast? If so, the problem is the turning block or further back. If not, the sail track or mast sheave. Our surveyor recommended replacing the turning block with a ball bearing type- 1987 model has no bearing. Its on the list...
T

[RV61]

Kevin,
To answer you question. Glad you asked.

If the problem appears to be with the sheaves at the top of the mast, is it an absolutely necessity to drop the mast to effect repairs and install new sheaves?  Or, can a rigger (or myself) install new (Ball bearing) sheaves without having to go through the expense.

The answer is  you or a rigger can do it in the air with out pulling the stick. It is pretty easy to remove the mast cap and the pin for the sheave from what I recall when I put the ball bearing sheave in.

Putting the sheave in did help however still need to winch up the last 2 feet or so unless I am raising the main at the mast in which Ii can raise all the way. I believe the angle at which the deck turning block to the mast block is culprit. I have not figured out a change to fix that. Has any one put in the bearing turning block on deck? Would like to hear from others who may have fixed this.

My main does not come all the way down even with sail cote. It comes about 2/3 down then we need to pull rest of the way. The halyard moves freely with no issues. Sail  slugs seem to glide with no issue. Would be interested if others have been able to get their sail completely up with out winching and down completely with out a using down haul or having a track system installed. So all the way up and down from the cock pit . What is the trick???

Thanks
Rick     

 




 

[Stu Jackson]

Think of where the points of friction are in the system:

1.  The sail slugs and the track
2.  The sheaves at the top of the mast
3.  The turning block at the base of the mast
4.  The deck organizer block

Take them one at a time, since they could be different on all boats.  The sail slug issue has been discussed in the previous answers.  Others, like me, have tracks instead of using the mast slot.  My boat came that way from the PO.  I was lucky!  One thing not mentioned is lubing the track.

I replaced all of my deck organizer blocks with new ones from Garhauer.

I still need to replace my block at the base of the mast, to match all the new mainsheet blocks I got from Garhauer.

I don't know what sheaves I have up top - I blew it by not replacing them when we pulled the stick in 2003.

So take 'em one at a time.

Dave Davis, IIRC, moved his deck organizers aft some to reduce the "angle of attack" which he says helped a lot.  Do an advanced search on organizer with Dave Davis and see if you can find the topic he posted.

You might end up finding out anywhere from one to all being the "culprit."

[sailaway]

Kevin  I have the same problem. I changed the mast head sheeve with a Garhauer rolling bearing. Yes I believe you have to step the mast to get the cap off. I may be wrong but I think the forstay and backstay attach to the cap. I also put rolling bearing at the turning block and deck organizer.  It helped about 10%. I had to put a larger and more powerful winch  to help. The problem is to many turns and the angle of the deck organizer. The better sail track might help. I haven't  done  that . Charlie

[Ron Hill]

Kevin : Look at page 4.1.5 of your owners manual and you see what Sailaway is telling you.  To change the mast head halyard sheaves the mast needs to be down!!  The mast cap must be removed to access the halyard sheaves.  
I'll guess that you could leave the upper shrouds in place, slack off on the head stay & back stay and remove the mast cap.  Got a hunch it's better to just remove the mast and probably less $$ than hiring a rigger to do that job - as I believe most of us are not capable of doing that task !!

As Stu mentioned you first need to try the main halyard line to see if it runs freely with out a load - checking out the top of the mast (non BB sheaves) - it could be frozen!!  Then you need ball bearing sheaves in the blocks at the base of the mast and the BB turning blocks on the deck because each cuts down friction.  
As Dave Davis did route the halyard from the base of the mast direct to the coach top winch - that cuts some friction from the turning block.  You might also look at the fairleads under the traveler and make sure they have space for your size halyard line.  

Lastly, lube (dry Teflon) the mainsail track in the mast.    A few thoughts

[RV61]

Kevin,
I apologize as I was incorrect you do have to take mast down as sailaway and Ron pointed out. I missed the fact that some of the stays are attached to the mast head cap as I changed to ball bearing sheave when mast was down and remembered it to be very simple job.
Rick

[Kevin Henderson]

Thanks everyone for the great input.  It's supposed to rain this weekend so I don't know how much work I'll get done on this investigation but I already know a couple of things:
1.  If the mast sheaves need to be replaced ... the mast has to come down.... I hope the sheaves are good $$$.  Since I'm planning a haul out in the early spring for bottom paint, that might be a good time to drop the mast as well.
2.  I know for certain the turning blocks (4) at the mast base are ball bearing.... not likely to be suspect but still will be checked.
3.  Thank you Stu!!... I didn't even think of the deck organizers.  I'll check to see if they are ball bearing but I already know it appears they are at an acute angle to the mast and blocks.  Moving those organizers a bit aft would seem to be a good project regardless but I think it is likely beyond my scope.
4.  Sail lugs and track.  I am really hoping one of these two to be the culprits.  I know for certain the PO had the mast painted.  (the PO also had upgraded the turning blocks, stays and shrouds and I'm hoping the sheaves as well).  I can easily apply some dry lube to the lugs but if I need to lube the track are there some good methods to do so?
5.  If all checks out and its simply a sticky track and lugs... taking it to the next step... how difficult or effective is it to upgrade to a track type system like the Harken Batt Cars... I would love to have the Main easy enough to raise and lower that the Admiral could do it effortlessly, without my brute strength (although I'm not much of a brut) 

[waterdog]

There are some references to painting of the mast track as though it is a detriment to smooth sail raising.   Painting the mast may be good or bad depending on the level of preparation and the quality of the paint job.   I sanded my track absolutely smooth to bare metal with new primer and paint professionally applied.  I also added a new main with new slides, replaced the bushings in the sheaves, new ball bearing turning block, and new deck organizers.   It's now an easy pull by hand up to the last few feet.   Very smooth with very little friction in the system.   I wouldn't be bothered installing cars if you gave them to me.  

Since I did everything at once, I  don't know which was the biggest contributor to friction - my guess would be the slides in the track.   Track can be sanded without de-masting or repainting and slides are easily replaced.  

[Ron Hill]

Kevin : Call Garhauer Marine and tell them you want 4 top of the mast halyard ball bearing sheaves. 
I pulled the mast over 10 years ago and as I recall those BB sheaves were not that expensive.

Take a look at the Mainsheet tech notes to see my article on "pulling the deck stepped mast" and installing a Hinkley TV antenna (Aug 2001).  There are all kind of things you might want to do with the mast down. 
I've listed items to be done, in the mast pulling article.  Good luck

[Ted Pounds]

Kevin, If you're going to pull the stick to replace the sheaves that will be a perfect opportunity to inspect the track.  I would suggest some 500 grit emery paper on a sail slug and run it up and down the track.  Then a good dry lube like McLube or Elmers spayed liberally in the track.  Then run a slug up down to test the final product.  Just a thought...

[Mike and Joanne Stimmler]

Kevin,
I just got off the phone with my rigger and he says that the sheaves can be replaced with the mast up.
Give him a call if you want. His name is Casey at KC Performance Rigging phone 619-224-1636 at 1670 Hettner Blvd.

If you have other reasons for pulling the mast, that's fine but if you just want to replace the sheaves, I think it would at least worth talking to Casey.

Good Luck,
Mike

[Kevin Henderson]

Thank You Mike!!!
I have a call out Casey right now and I'll be talking to him soon