Freeing Frozen Turnbuckles

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Stu Jackson

I needed to (re)tune my standing rigging.  Because of my skiing accident early last year, it's been altogether too long since I'd even moved or tried to move our turnbuckles.  I was planning to motor out for a sail, check the tensions which I knew were too loose on the leeward shrouds under sail, and adjust them to suit.

Before I left the slip I thought it prudent to remove the clevis pins, all 12 of them, and free the turnbuckles so I could adjust them more easily while out for the sail.  You guessed it, only one of them would even budge!  I quickly put away the notion of sailing, and thought about how best to free them.

One of the best "unlocking" fluids we have found is PB Blaster, available at any hardware store.  We learned about this many years ago, after using WD-40 for years.  Once you try this stuff you'll find no need for WD-40 or Liquid Wrench on your boat ever again.  PB Blaster loosened the bottom nut on the exhaust riser flange for us, albeit it took two days!  Just don't get it anywhere near the transmission seals.

I sprayed the PBB on the turnbuckle threads, top and bottom, once, then twice.  To give it time to set I spent the time getting a new full CNG canister for our stove from the local marine store.

When I returned, it took a long screwdriver for leverage and an adjustable wrench to hold the upper shroud from turning.  But they all came free!

I suggest that you do preventative maintenance on your turnbuckles on a regular basis by simply turning them every once in a while to make sure they keep moving.  Even with clevis pins in place, they'll move a little without upsetting your rig tune.

There are also materials out there, like Super Lube, that you can coat the threads with to avoid the galling that occurs when the two metals are sitting together in the threaded part.

Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Mike and Joanne Stimmler

Thanks Stu, that's a great idea to Keep the turnbuckles free even though you don't need to adjust them. Granted, PB Blaster is the greatest for loosening stuck nuts and screws, but don't discount. WD40 for other uses like silencing door hinge squeaks and dissolving sticky stuff and greasy engine slime.
Time to go spray my turnbuckles.
Mike and Joanne Stimmler
Former owner of Calerpitter
'89 Tall Rig Fin keel #940
San Diego/Mission Bay
mjstimmler@cox.net

Ron Hill

#2
Guys : To add to the Super Lube that Stu mentioned; lanacoat, vaseline or any grease /lubricant is better than screwing the threaded rigging studs into the turnbuckles -- dry.    A thought   :idea:
Ron, Apache #788

Stu Jackson

#3
Interestingly enough, your C34 Manual tells you to do this.  To borrow a phrase: "Good information in those manuals, only if you read them."

Page 15 of 66 (PDF pages) STANDING RIGGING, here: http://www.c34.org/manuals/1988/1988-C34-Owners.pdf
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

tonywright

Stu' s advice is excellent. I also strongly recommend reading the following article on why you should never apply leveraged force to turn a frozen turnbuckle...

http://www.nsc.ca/nsc_library/techtalk/dewitte_turnbuckles.htm

I use a special waterproof grease with graphite on my turnnbuckles every year. Apparently it is the same used by the US Navy and Coat Guard.  Belt and braces maybe, but these things keep the mast up.
Tony Wright
#1657 2003 34 MKII  "Vagabond"
Nepean Sailing Club, Ottawa, Canada

John Langford

I use pure lanolin which works extremely well. It can be an odd purchase however as it is most easily available at drugstores where it is recommended for treating the nipples of breast-feeding mothers.
Cheers
John
"Surprise"
Ranger Tug, 29S

sail4dale

I have had good success with Lanocote spray .... i
t is great and I use it on all my lubricated joints.
Cat34 Mk II True Luff #1582  2001
San Pedro, CA (Port of Los Angeles)