Distribution Panel making electricity??????

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Bobg

I have a unusual incident coming from my distribution panel, it seems to be making electricity,  with the battery selector switch in the off position,   and all negative wires removed from the house battery bank I get a spark when touching the positive on the battery with the + lead from the battery selector switch.  It is a fairly strong spark that diminishes after a couple touches, wait 5 minutes and the spark comes back again.


All shore power is disconnected, I have isolated the reserve battery and disconnected the battery combiner, and the "C" post wire from the battery selector switch has been disconnected at the starter solenoid.  I virtually have no power at the panel but still get the spark. All rocker switches are in the off position,  I get a feeling this may be draining my battery  even with the selector switch on off.  My DVM doesn't show any volts, but the dang spark is still there??????

Is there capacitors behind the panel that won't drain or what the heck is going on.

I am starting to wish I wouldn't have named my boat GhostRider. 
Bob Gatz, 1988 catalina 34, Hull#818, "Ghostrider" sail lake superior Apostle Islands

Ken Juul

There should be a few things, bilge pump(s), radio memory, CO detector, etc. that may be wired directly to the battery.  They need constant power to work correctly.  They should be fused of course.
Ken & Vicki Juul
Luna Loca #1090
Chesapeake Bay
Past Commodore C34IA

Bobg

I agree with you Ken, but wouldn't that be all turned off if the battery selector switch is in the off position? and all negative leads disconnected?  My buddy and I were having the conversation that given my earlier post on my alt heating up when trying to charge my golf cart batteries, and the spark from the DP occuring at the golf cart batterys, (I didn't try it with my test battery,) could it be I have a + to- miniscule connection within the batteries itself?  one that doesn't show up on conventional testing of the batterys. (ie) hand held tester and sp test.  I think I better take the new batteries out and have them tested a little more professionally.  Thank you for your answer  Bob
Bob Gatz, 1988 catalina 34, Hull#818, "Ghostrider" sail lake superior Apostle Islands

Ken Juul

You are right.  I missed the neg leads disconnected.  I don't know who did the original wiring on my boat, but my bilge pumps are wired thru a float switch and fuse directly to the battery posts.  Much easier than running the wire up to the electrical panel.  The position of the battery switch should have no effect on the bilge pump, it should always have power. Not sure how the bilge pump switch on the panel is wired, I have always assumed that the battery switch needed to be on, but haven't tested it.

It almost sounds like you have a shorted cell in one or more of your batteries.  I think you are on the right course, get them tested professionally.  Auto Zone, Sears, Sams Club.  Most stores that sell batteries will test for free.
Ken & Vicki Juul
Luna Loca #1090
Chesapeake Bay
Past Commodore C34IA

Mike and Joanne Stimmler

#4
It does sound like a capacitive issue but I would start by testing it with a multimeter.
1.  First check for a voltage between the positive post of the battery and the wire that you're getting the spark from. If you get a voltage reading then there is a ground on the wire somewhere, or there is a load on it.
2. Then test between a known good ground and the same wire and if you get a voltage reading there, then you have a stray voltage on the wire.

My 3 cents worth,
Mike
Mike and Joanne Stimmler
Former owner of Calerpitter
'89 Tall Rig Fin keel #940
San Diego/Mission Bay
mjstimmler@cox.net

Stu Jackson

This "kinda" comes from the sizzling new alternator topic:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5751.30.html

I've cross referenced them, 'cuz it seems like pretty much the same issue.

Bob, you really did a great job on your wiring diagram.  Does it seems like you may need to do some more digging?

Or, it could be a bad battery which is causing you all this grief.

If your new alternator is trying to charge a full house bank (your new bank of 6V Trojans), it shouldn't have any issues.  If the alternator heats up on a full bank, then the culprit is usually one of the batteries.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

sailaway

Bob
  Sounds like a capacitive issue. When you short the leads together try should spark and discharge the cap. But not come back in five minutes. unhook the radio antenna, and the power, see if it goes away. The ground plan on the radio antenna my be your negative. Good luck  Charlie