Shore power cord

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Exodus

I searched the archives, but was unable to find this problem mentioned.  I apologize if this has been covered already.

The end of my shore power chord appears burned where it connects to the boat.  I noticed a slight brown mark a couple of weeks ago, but it now appears worse. It is just around one of the prongs.  I also observed that the end was warm to the touch.    I checked to make sure that both ends of the cord were securely fastened.  I left everything turned off when I left the boat.

I did not want to buy a new shore power cord only to have the same problem any ideas?

Stu Jackson

#1
One of the reasons this hasn't been covered is that it is not a specific C34 issue.  BoatUS's "Seaworthy" magazine just did a report on this.

http://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/swhigh.asp

You need to empty your port locker and check out your inlet socket completely.

Also see:  http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/36.htm
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Rick Berman

I read the article that Stu is referring to.  Based on it, I'd definitely replace it!
Rick Berman on the Tula, Puget Sound (Hull 484, M25-XP)

Ken Juul

A little bit of corrosion and high power loads (air conditioners, etc) really take their toll on shore power cords.  A monthly shot of WD40 or contact cleaner may help (unplugged/power off).  Another culprit is a misplaced step on the cord/plug causing momentary arcing inside the plug.  Replacement plugs are available for a DIY fix.  If both ends are bad, a new cord is probably cheaper.
Ken & Vicki Juul
Luna Loca #1090
Chesapeake Bay
Past Commodore C34IA

Exodus

Thanks for the replies.

Stu, I attempted to inspect the inlet socket, but the PO installed the air conditioner in the port locker and there is no access to the back of the inlet.  Do you know if the screws have backing plate, or would it be possible to unscrew the inlet from outside without having to cut into or remove the housing around my air conditioner.

Thanks

Ron Hill

The main cause of electrical arcing(the brown marks), is that all of the power draw was not turned off before unplugging the power cord!! 
Ron, Apache #788

Exodus

Ron, I don't know the previous owners routine, but I always turn the power off on the inside panel and at the dock before disconnecting the cord.  I also made sure that the cord was secure on both ends and it was.

I plan to buy a new cord next weekend, I just hope that the problem does not ruin the new cord as well.  Hopefully I will be able to figure out how to get to the inlet and may replace it as well.  No one else seems to have reported any problems with undersized wiring from the factory so I am assuming the problem is most likely the cord, inlet or both and not the wiring on the boat.



Ken Juul

#7
QuoteThe main cause of electrical arcing(the brown marks), is that all of the power draw was not turned off before unplugging the power cord!!  

Ron said it better than I.  That is the point I was trying to make with my stepping on the cord/plug causing momentary disconnects (arcing) comment.  Depending on where the plug is located, it could also be tugging on the cord as the boat moves in the slip or bumping the plug as someone moves around the cockpit/boat.  Mine is located on the aft bulkhead of the cockpit bench seat next to the engine panel.  All guests get briefed on the hazard of hitting the plug, and to be especially careful when entering or leaving the stern perch seat.
Ken & Vicki Juul
Luna Loca #1090
Chesapeake Bay
Past Commodore C34IA

Mike and Joanne Stimmler

If there are any burn marks on the male prongs of the boat or cord connections, you could try cleaning it first to see if it makes a difference.

Mike
Mike and Joanne Stimmler
Former owner of Calerpitter
'89 Tall Rig Fin keel #940
San Diego/Mission Bay
mjstimmler@cox.net