Steaming Light Replacement

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horsemel

I seem to recall a previous thread on steaming light replacement, but can't locate it. Anyway, I pulled the mast this year so I could have the hull blisters and stress cracks repaired and barrier coated.  I am also replacing the masthead sheaves and forward halyards. The steaming light is in bad shape and needs replacing.  While I am at it I would like to add LED bulbs.  To make things simple I would just like to replace the light with the same make and model.  Do I call Catalina to find out the make and model?   Do they make LED bulbs for these?  Also, is there supposed to be a lens and light in the bottom of the fixture that lights the deck?  If so, mine is completely missing.  Along the same lines should I replace the wiring while I am doing all of this other stuff?

I went up to inspect the hull work today and after it is painted it will look like a new boat.  My mast, well it is sitting behind a 3' pile of snow.
Mark Mueller
Mark & Melinda Mueller
Blue Moon, Hull #815
1988

Ron Hill

#1
Mark : Here goes to answer you questions :
They still make the Forespar steaming/deck light fixture (OEM for most of the earlier boats) and there are LED light bulbs to fit the steaming light.  I have never put an LED bulb in the steaming light because by Law the engine is on and no need to conserve power and the steaming bulb on my C34 has never burned out - but there are LEDs to fit.
 
The problem is the deck light bulb burning out.  It's a halogen bulb for it's brightness and not too sure that an LED will give enough light onto the deck from that height.  My first fixture had a deck light lens, but Forspar said it got too hot and that's what burned out my many bulbs so I took out the glass lens.  Baloney, the lens protects the bulb and I now keep it in place.  I found that the culprit was the salt corrosion on the deck light stab connectors.  I now coat them with BO shield and the bulb has lasted for many years.

While you have the mast down, I'd replace all of the wiring. Get rid of those D#@*%$ butt connectors (crimp/solder/sleeve with heat shrink) and use marine grade wire!  
You also might want to look at the article I wrote in the Mainsheet tech notes when I install a Hinckley TV antenna, ball bearing sheaves in the mast head and added a new anchor light fixture.  Good Luck!!
Ron, Apache #788

Stu Jackson

#2
Not everyone has Forespar and I'm glad we have our Aqua Signal Series 25.  We have replaced all the fixtures and/or lenses over the years.

You need to use your binoculars to see which one you have.  Then check the WM catalog to assure the brand.

Get new parts or replace the fixture accordingly.  We left the mounting part on the mast and just replaced the front after dealing with the wiring at the fixture.  Our mast wiring wiring is fine.

Ron's right the lamps are fine, cuz you'll be motoring using that lamp.

For wiring ideas:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4254.0.html
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Ron Hill

Stu : As I have mentioned in a few earlier posts.
Forespar or Aqua Signal Deck/Steaming lights -- they still are both problematical as far as a great maintenance free item that is way overpriced.  My thoughts
Ron, Apache #788

horsemel

I think I have the other light cause mine doesn't look like your pictures.  I have a picture but I'm not smart enough to figure out how to post to the messages.  I will be replacing it.  Ron, where can I find the Mainsheet article you wrote that you mention in your previous post?  I intend to replace the wiring and I hope your article has some good hints.  If the article doesn't cover the wiring replacement, is there a best way to do it?  I have received the sheaves from Garhauer.  You were right, talking to Bill got an immediate correct answer.  This is all rather daunting to me and I suspect it will not be as simple as it sounds.
Mark Mueller
Mark & Melinda Mueller
Blue Moon, Hull #815
1988

Phil Spicer

 Mark, my boat is at Deep Water Marina for the winter..... Are you at Sandusky Harbor?  Give me a call if you need a hand. (419-334-3071 or 419-355-6135) The sheaves are a quick change. The wires should just be some careful fishing. The snow is almost gone   :clap so it won't be long before I start making the trip to the lake.
Phil & Marsha,Sandusky Sailing Club. Steamboat is #789,tall/wing-Unv M25XP/Hurth ZF 50 trans.

Ron Hill

Mark : The article I wrote that you may be referring to was on pulling the mast. 
Don't think I specifically talked about replacing the wiring, but as I found in so many of Catalina's electrical problems - just getting ride of the butt/blue gnd connectors and soldering the connections (then covering with heat shrink) solves all of the problems ever though it is NOT marine grade (factory installed) wire. 
To really look at the mast wiring you need to have the stick out of the boat. Then you can remove the mast head, change to BB sheaves, check out the anchor light fixture and get to examine the wiring.
A few thoughts
Ron, Apache #788

Rick Allen

Mark, we pulled our stick in 2007 to replace the standing rigging and all the lights.  The old light looked like this:


and the new one looked like this:


The old wire above was to the Radar unit and also eventually replaced.  More pictures of our work on the mast can be seen here:
http://public.fotki.com/randypictures/painkiller-1/out-comes-the-mast/

Rick
Rick Allen, C34 IA Commodore
Former owner of "PainKiller", 1988 C34 MKI, Sail#746, std. rig, wing keel.

horsemel

Thanks all, this helps and I will be giving Phil a call.  So far, my steaming light does not look like any shown so I will pull it and see what West Marine has go offer.  I will replace the wiring.  I am sure it is original and might as well get done while replacing the sheaves.  Thanks again for the input.
Mark Mueller
Mark & Melinda Mueller
Blue Moon, Hull #815
1988