Another Vented Loop Question

[Brad Young]

So I replaced the leaking vented loop from the heat exchanger.
However the loop that I purchased from WM is a little different than the one I  removed from the heat exchanger.

I would like to know.w if the difference is OK or do I need to get a different type of vented loop.

1) A picture is worth a thousand words. I took a pic but it is 1.2M. not sure how to attach a pic that big.
If you know how, please let me know.

About the vented loops

2) Both vented loops are the same, However the caps (valves) are different

3) The leaking vented loop has a spring and ball mechanism. The spring is broken therefore not putting enough tension on the ball. Allow water to seep around the ball.
4)The one I brought from WM has a rubber mechanism called a duck bill (looks  like one too). Is this just a newer design or is it a different type?

Let me know what  you think

Thanks
brad

[Stu Jackson]

Photos:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3701.0.html

Vented loop - anti-siphon valve:  the new duck bill will work just fine, that's what most of us have.

[Roc]

Mine is the rubber duck bill type too.  That's how it came from the factory.

[Ron Hill]

Brad : The "duck bill" valve is part of a Forespar vented loop.  There are other valves for vented loops, but personally I'd stay away from one with a spring and stainless ball as salt water could and will corrode, especially the spring. 
A thought.

[Brad Young]

Here is a pic of the vented loop with with spring and ball anti-siphon mechanism.

I agree with everyone that the spring and ball type is not the best design. I will keep the duck bill in. Thanks for the info.

This vented loop is not attached to anything.   (just supported by the hoses, not a very good idea) I would like to attach a piece of plywood to the side of the cabinet and then screw the vented loop into the plywood.
My question is:
What is the best way to attach this plywood to the wall. Epoxy if so what type)
Thanks
Brad

[Stu Jackson]

Brad, why?  Where's it goin'?  Easier to put one U clamps over one of the hoses below the vented loop so as to be able to remove the loop if needed than to have to unscrew the loop.

[Brad Young]

The reason I want to tack down the vented loop is : when I replaced the loop I noticed that one of the hoses had a flat spot on it. It had rubbed so much I  could see the inside cords of the hose. I replaced this hose and do not want problems in the future.
Please tell me a little more about this u clamp idea. Does it keep the hose from vibrating? What do you attach the clamp to?
Thanks
brad

[Ted Pounds]

Try Gorilla glue.  And you are right wires and hoses need to be secured every few feet to prevent chafe. 

[Stu Jackson]

Brad, a U clamp is just a piece of metal in the shape of a U with holes at each end.  You place it over a hose to attach it to a "wall."  Reason I suggest this is that it may be easier to service the duck bill on the vented loop if you attach the hose and not the loop to the "wall" of whatever your loop is resting against.

You should also have one of these loops between the hand pump and the bowl of your head, usually in the nav station hanging locker, although I've seen some folks who smartly have left theirs right inside the head compartment for ease of servicing.

[Ron Hill]

Brad : Most vented loops like the one you have a picture of, have 3 "holes" for mounting.  As Stu mentioned the stiffness of the hose could do the job by itself. 
However, I'd recommend that you only need to take at least one or maybe two screws to securely mount it to a bulkhead/wall, and you'll be in good shape.