Drilling through 'cap rail' area

[Wayne]

I'm thinking of either extending my outside track a couple of feet forward, or mounting a padeye a couple of feet forward of my existing track.  Anybody know if there is any wood core in this area, or if it is solid fiberglass?
Thanks.

[Stu Jackson]

The deck should be balsa cored except for the few areas with embedded plates for hardware, which wouldn't occur where you describe your activity.

New jib or for better trim?

[Wayne]

My purpose is to get a better lead for my preventer.  I'm using a basic vang from the boom to a movable padeye running on the outside jib track.  The point of attachment should be more forward than the forward end of the jib track; I want to move on from 'get by' mode of a not-so-great lead down to the rail.
So you think I'll find wood core inside the raised outside rail on which the track is mounted? (I call it the cap rail, but I might be using the wrong term).

[Stu Jackson]

Sorry, Wayne, I missed the word "outer" in your initial track and thought you meant deck.  I don't have an outer track, so I don't know what's under there.  Investigating it by looking underneath is what I'd do to see how the existing track is mounted, which is right over the hull to deck joint.

For a preventer, I use a vang type arrangement, too, by moving my cunningham to the forward lower shroud base.

Steve Dolling, aka "waterdog", did this - installed a D shackle as the pin on his shroud.  Beats drilling new holes.

[ozzie]

Wayne,

I have seen inside the cap rail of a C34 mkII and there is a piece of 1 x 3/4" wood in the middle and the curved top of the rail is 1/4" fiberglass. The rest is a bondo type of material (not stuctural) filler. From what I can see Catalina drills and taps the bolt holes for the track in the cap rail and thats all that holds it with no nut under it.
The deck at the side rail under the non skid is appox. 3/8" plywood and fiberglass. In my opinon not strong enough for a pad eye unless you could put a backing plate under it.
I also do not agree with putting shakles into chainplates. Chainplates are not designed to have side load placed on them and shackle pins can work loose.
Preventers also tend to break booms. Have you considered using a heavy rubber preventer? That way it could hold out the boom and if you have an accidental jybe it will slow the boom down but not break it.

ozzie

[Wayne]

Thanks for the ideas, guys.  If I remember correctly, my track bolts at least have a nut and washer on the underside, accessible from the cabin.  I hadn't thought of using something made of rubber, but my vang is pretty light on purpose--if something gets overloaded and breaks, better the inexpensive block and tackle than the boom . . .

[waterdog]

...
I also do not agree with putting shakles into chainplates. Chainplates are not designed to have side load placed on them and shackle pins can work loose.
Preventers also tend to break booms. Have you considered using a heavy rubber preventer? That way it could hold out the boom and if you have an accidental jybe it will slow the boom down but not break it.

ozzie

Turnbuckles can work loose too ... that's why we mouse a little wire through them.   I use a piece of light line as my final attachement to the boom.  No broken booms.  No broken chainplates.    I think the chainplates are more than up to any side load I'll apply to them. 

[ozzie]

Wayne,

If you are going to extend your inside track you have to have something solid between the deck and the inner liner or you will compress and or crack it.

ozzie