Frozen Nut

[Analgesic]

I suffered an unfortunate dramatic banging of masts with a Tartan 40 we were rafted to in Wellfleet, MA harbor this Summer as a fishing boat went out sending a big wake our way.  After that I  noted leaking water from several chain plates when it rains.  I  am  taking on the task of rebedding all chain plates this Winter following the excellent guidance found in this website.  I spent several hours each of the last two days trying to remove the chain plates but have only been able to remove 10 of the 12 screw/nut combinations.  The last 2 have resisted WD 40, banging with a hammer, heating with a mini butane torch, PB Blaster and elbow grease resulting in a few scrapes and bruises.   I would appreciate any advice on how to solve the corroded nut that just won't give up.  I am fighting the seasonal clock as it is getting colder quickly here in MA. 
Brian McPhillips

[Craig Illman]

Brian - I had to use an impact wrench on a couple of mine. You could probably rent one (with impact socket) from a local tool rental company. I bought mine from Harbor Freight to deal with the quadrant bolts that hadn't been installed with Lanacote (or equivalent). It's amazing what a bond stainless and aluminum can make in a salty air environment. I realize the chainplates are all stainless.

Craig

[hump180]

Brian, I am not sure what you can do to free the nuts, but as far as the chain plate rebedding there is what I consider a flaw in the instructions on this website. According to Don Casey's book sailboat hull and deck repair, you need to rebed the chainplates but skip the sealant on the underside of the chainplates inside the cabin. You do not want to seal moisture in the deck. I am not saying that the instructions are not good, they are, just do not seal the underside (cabin) plate. This will allow moisture to enter the cabin when the seal at the chainplate fails - indicating time to reseal or rebed.

[Stu Jackson]

...there is what I consider a flaw in the instructions on this website.

Bill & others:

If you see an error in a wiki article, please make the corrections there, too.  It may take perhaps all of ten minutes of your time to learn the wiki language for editing (it's just typing, really).

The purpose of the wiki is to do just that.  I corrected and edited a few articles that "needed it", like my stuffing box article which was originally written before the GFO material was invented and Jim Moe's echo charger connection points on his excellent wiring design.  

It's as easy to edit the wiki as editing on this Message Board.

And if you're concerned about "breaking something" just remember the ALT < (or BACK) buttons - no harm, no foul, just start over.

Bill, see:  http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Inspecting_and_Re-bedding_Chainplates

[Ken Juul]

To amplify Stu's post.  There is a seperate "how to" area on the Tech Wiki if you scroll down the page to help you get used to the new format.  Before you make any changes you must be logged into the wiki.  In the upper right corner is a log in link.  It uses the same user name and password that you use on the forum.  It takes a little getting used to, but is not hard.....remember how foreign the forum format was several years ago....it just takes a little experience and practice.