Electric fuel pump tick

[Bob K]

I just finished changing both fuel filters and hoses, and bled the lines using the bleed screw on the secendary filter and the bleed screw on the injector. The engine starts and runs fine (did not leave the dock), but I notice when I first turn on the ignition, the fuel pump ticking starts off very fast, and then slows down to normal rate.  As if it is building pressure up in the line.  I don't recall this happenig in the past, but maybe I didn't notice?  I'm concerned that there still may be air somewhere in the line.  Is the initial fast tick normal? 
Thanks,
Bob

[Stu Jackson]

Just guessing on what engine you have on your boat?  Just try doing it again.  When you first did the bleeding one of the things to do is "do it again" to make sure what you first did was OK.

Ken Heyman reported that he'd had a "bent" fuel filter and it didn't seat right on the Racor housing.  Could be lotsa things, and it's unnecessary to go there, yet, so try it all again first, then track it down.

That's what I'd do if it was my boat.  I have also been known to forget to open my fuel tank shutoff valve! 

[waterdog]

Bob,   

I have a fool proof method of resolving all fuel pump / bleeding related issues.   If I recall correctly it involves 2 bottles of red wine - 1 for the owner of the car you borrow to go fuel pump shopping, 1 for the guy on the dock that actually has fuel pump, fresh brownies for all the people that give you advice.   It takes a day and half and you have to redo all the wiring at the engine control panel.   Only 10% of the steps are really necessary, but I have no idea which 10%.  If you like, I can drink 4 beers and I should be able to recall all the steps precisely.  Just let me know. 

[Ron Hill]

Bob : Two points:
1.  I have and always will recommend that anyone only change ONE filter at a time.  Change one, bleed the fuel line and run the engine.  When you are satisfied that all is well then change the other one and rebleed.
2.  Let the bleed valve cracked about 1/4 to 1/2 turn open and you'll have a "self bleeding" system.

[Ken Heyman]

I also regularly experience this phenomena. As it has stood the "test of time" I have paid it little heed. You may want to open and shut the knurled knob on the injector pump (see previous posts on the subject)  for 20 -30 seconds as I find this quite effective in bleeding a modest amount of air from the system. In fact, when I change filters this is generally all that I need  to  do in order bleed the air completely from the lines. (Stu, I still think it's magic)

good luck

Ken

[Stu Jackson]

Here's an example of a search phrase: "Theoretical" since Ken used it in his helpful bleeding post, and, oh, bleeding would get you more hits than a Sunday afternoon football game!

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,2884.0.html

Remember, it depends on your engine, too.

[Bob K]

Thanks for all the replies.  I should clarify that I did repeat the bleed procedure several times (including the knurled screw at the injector line).    My hope is that the fast ticking when the key is first turned on is normal, and I just never noticed it.   The engine started easily, and ran normally at the dock, even when put in gear to load it up.  Ran it for an hour or so, and everything was great.  The nagging fear is that there is an air bubble somewhere that is ready to pounce when I am most vulnerable!  After reading the old post (thanks Stu), I think I'll bleed it one more time.  I'll post the results. (BTW, engine is M35)

[Stu Jackson]

Bob,

The reason we ask about the engines is this (and thanks for including it):  didn't someone say , once upon a time, that M35s are self bleeding? 

I don't have one so I don't follow the details of other engines, I have my hands full keeping track of all of the stuff I need to know about my own little puppy.

[Ron Hill]

FYI, the A model of the M25XP & M35 engines have a bleed valve.  The B models of these engines DO NOT have a bleed valve. 

[Bob K]

I think mine is a straight M35, neither A nor B.  Is that possible? I don't think it self bleeds, as the manual doesn't state that, and there is a bleed procedure (and a bleed valve). 

[Ron Hill]

Bob : Your M35 30hp) is the one before the M35 "B" model (35hp), like all of the other M35s in the MKI C34s (1990 -1993). They all have a bleed valve.   

[Stu Jackson]

I guess calling an M35 with-nothing-behind it, as compared to the M35 B, is kinda like calling our boats Mark Is.  They didn't call them a Mark I BEFORE they started making the Mark IIs!!!

And then we got really clever!  We called the few sugar scoop transom models Mark I 1/4.  But, of course, that was only AFTER we called the walk through transoms the Mark I 1/2.   

[Bob K]

OK, got it.  M35 = M35A=  bleed valve.  You know, this forum is a welcome diversion while I'm filling out tax forms!

[Craig Illman]

I guess I have a Mark 1.5-, a 1991 walk-thru with a M25-XPA

Craig