Maxwell windlass

[Earl Miller]

What is the model number of the Maxwell windlass in the following picture?  I would like to add a chain gypsy to the windlass.  I have searched this web site on this topic and there is a referenced upgrade for a model VC500.  I don't know if it would work for my windlass.

[Ken Juul]

I want to say that it is an Maxwell 500 series, but that is just a guess from memory.  Won't be to the boat for about a month so it will be a while before I can check my records.   

I appears from the picture that I have the same one, did try to remove the capstan drum once.  It was stuck hard.  After an hour of beating and prying I gave up in fear that I would damage something.  So if you do decide to add a gypsy be prepared for a battle.

In use the capstan handles the chain very well as long as tension is applied to the tail.  Before I figured out how to do a rope to chain splice it it was a bit of a pain to get past the thimble at the end of the rode.  Also it helps to go slow.  On occasion I've had chain jams because the momenteum of the boat had chain coming in faster than I could stow it. 

Eventually the chain will tear up the chrome, it is supposed to be brass or bronze underneath so I am not real worried about that.  It's a bit softer than the chrome but should handle the environment just fine.

[Craig Illman]

Earl - It should be a VC500. Adding the chain gypsy, making it equivalent to a VW500, requires a new gearbox. Maxwell had a kit to make the conversion. Search their website for a tech support number in the Southern California area to see if they still offer it.

Craig

[jfssail]

Earl,
I have the same windlass and when I went to 5/16 HT galv chain, found the original drum with 2 wraps handled the chain with no problems, provided the drum is slightly worn. Give it a try, you might be surprised .  I know I was.

Jack F Stewart
1993 C36 #1233 "Windancer"
Port Clinton, OH

[Ron Hill]

Earl : Jack is correct, a double wrap of chain (regardless of size) and that drum will pull it in.  The problem that you'll get into is that the chrome plating will chip off withthe chain going over it and those chrome chard's are SHARPE !  I'd advise that you grind off the chrome so you get down to the bronze, then you'll be OK.
A thought. 

[Roland Gendreau]

Regarding removing the drum, I experienced the same dificulty that Ken mentioned above. My goal was to remove the drum to grease the unit as the grease fitting is behind the drum

Only after applying a lot of heat to the port side end of the drum did the unit finally slide off.

Then of course I broke the grease fitting off.

Typical boat project.

It wasn't hard finding a replacement grease fitting and I used an EZ out to get the remains of the grease nipple out.

I too recommend using the rope to chain splice in place of the shackle

Roland Gendreau

Gratitude #1183

[Stu Jackson]

The January 2007 edition of "Good Old Boat" magazine had a good description of how to do a rope to chain splice.  Brian Toss' "Rigger's Apprentice" book also has one.