Traveler Upgrade

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Hawk

Now on to the upgrade for the traveler to the 5:1 from Garhauer. There are many excellent threads on this site which I have read. Also have spoken to Guido at Garhauer as many of you have suggested to do.

The question though is whether to take the control lines forward then through a block and back under the dodger or simply aft over the roller conversion, through the zipper opening in the dodger and back to a swivel cam cleat mounted at the aft end of the cabin top? Maybe through a bullseye fairlead before the cam cleat also.

I'm wondering if there will be any difference in the traveler's operational smoothness leading lines forward then back.

Thanks for any input.
Tom



Tom Hawkins - 1990 Fin Keel - #1094 - M35

Joe and Carol

I took ours directly aft with the roller conversion through a grommet in the dodger via a deck mounted block and then a cam cleat.  All parts from Garhauer.  Works great.  Lines reach aft so I can single hand.
Joe & Carol Pyles

YatchaSea
1987 Catalina 34 TR
Hull #244

Sailing Stockton Lake, Missouri

Ken Juul

Both ways work very well.  It is a fantastic upgrade.  We chose to go forward to the block then back along the  teak companionway slide cover.  I just did not want to put holes in my new dodger windows.
Ken & Vicki Juul
Luna Loca #1090
Chesapeake Bay
Past Commodore C34IA

Jeff Kaplan

tom, i upgraded to that new garhauer system 2 seasons ago and i will tell you that it was one of the best upgrades i made, and i have made a lot. in  20kt winds you can pull the traveler up or lower it with ease. my dodger had the holes in it for the lines on the old system so the choice was easy for me. even if they weren't, i would have taken the dodger to a canvas shop to have grommets added, as the traveler lines just come straight back, no extra blocks needed. if you go with this method, tell guido that you want the traveler dodger conversion with no cam cleats so the lines just lead aft. i also sent the old traveler back to guido to use as a template so all the mounting holes would be drilled exactly to ensure a correct fit. also, prior to mounting, call guido so he can explain how to take apart the end caps and bearing assembly, which hide the outer mounting holes. very easy. good luck...jeff
#219, 1986 tall rig/shallow draft. "sedona sunset" atlantic-salem,ma

Hawk

Thanks guys. Joe, how many inches above the deck is the grommet in your dodger, if you recall...just wonder if my dodger zipper opens high enough.

Jeff, you said you sent the old traveler to Guido as a template. Did you mean the track or the car? I was planning to leave the track on and just add the upgrades. Thanks a lot.
Tom Hawkins - 1990 Fin Keel - #1094 - M35

BillG

The earlier travelers were not made by Garhauer and therefore everything had to be replaced.  Given your sail number I believe you have a garhauer and only need to replace the cars, as I did last year, best to check with Guido to make sure.
Bill
Rock Hall, MD

Jeff Kaplan

tom, do as bill said and check with guido to see if you need only a car upgrade. as for my self, i just sent back the bar to use as a template. i think you will need a complete traveler as the track looks different. guido will confirm that...jeff
#219, 1986 tall rig/shallow draft. "sedona sunset" atlantic-salem,ma

Stu Jackson

Please remember to through bolt the track as mentioned in the many search results on travelers.

It's really your call about the routing of the traveler lines.  There are two choices, pick one (we used the straight through with bullet fairleads and cam cleats with a grommet in the dodger window).
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Hawk

Stu,

I had noted to check the bolts and it looks like the track is through bolted, which I would expect with a 1990 boat, from previous posts on this subject.

Also I had read and presumed that the 1990 model boats did not require replacing the track itself.....but good advice to call Guido back and double check.

Thanks everyone. Tom
Tom Hawkins - 1990 Fin Keel - #1094 - M35

Ken Juul

My hull number is 1090.  All you need is the new car and end peices.  Unless Catalina did a switch due to supply problems.  If in doubt, send some detailed pictures of the track, should be able to tell from that.
Ken & Vicki Juul
Luna Loca #1090
Chesapeake Bay
Past Commodore C34IA

Jeff Kaplan

tom, i should have noted that i replaced the entire traveler with garhauers new, unibody mainsheet traveler, not just an upgrade of blocks and car. the po replaced the origional traveler back in the early 1990's with a thru bolted one and i replaced that one to the newest style. hopefully you can do just the car and block upgrade....jeff
#219, 1986 tall rig/shallow draft. "sedona sunset" atlantic-salem,ma

Hawk

Ken, I spoke to Guido at Garhauer and he confirmed that in 1987 Catalina began using Garhauer tracks which of course are compatable with the upgrade car.

Before 1987 the tracks likely are not compatable. Boats built in 1987 could have one or other of the tracks and must be checked, according to Guido.

So looks like my 1990 track will do just fine, as you indicated..Tom
Tom Hawkins - 1990 Fin Keel - #1094 - M35

Joe and Carol

The grommet was placed in the fabric of the dodger between the bottom of side front clear plastic windows and deck, approximately one two-three inches above the deck.  This is where the angled direction of line from roller to deck mounted block passed dodger cover.  My Zippers did not line up.  That would have been nice, since we are sailing without front window most of the time.

I used a hardware ( RV Store ) Plastic grommet that pressed/snapped together and it worked perfectly.  
Joe & Carol Pyles

YatchaSea
1987 Catalina 34 TR
Hull #244

Sailing Stockton Lake, Missouri

Hawk

I picked up the Garhuaer upgrade kit to install on the existing track. I've read all/most of the previous posts.
Guido sent me two ss end plates drilled to 5/16 in case I have to drill out the existing bolt to get it off and retap.

Question: I should get away with removing only one end plate so I can then rmove the two end block assemblies and the centre sliding car, or am I missing something?

Question: I take it the two end block assemblies are removed by unscrewing (hopefully not drilling) the existing bolt. Again, if I have to drill them out???
I'm not sure how they are set up.

Thanks guys...thought I'd get your opinions first before calling Guido back.
They sure are nice pieces of equipment.

HAwk
Tom Hawkins - 1990 Fin Keel - #1094 - M35

Stu Jackson

Quote from: Hawk on February 07, 2009, 12:20:15 PM


Question: I should get away with removing only one end plate so I can then remove the two end block assemblies and the centre sliding car, or am I missing something?

Question: I take it the two end block assemblies are removed by unscrewing (hopefully not drilling) the existing bolt. Again, if I have to drill them out???
I'm not sure how they are set up.


1.  Yes, you can.  It would be good to know you can get the other one off.  I used an impact wrench (and hammer) to undo mine and rebedded with Lanacote.

2.  Yes.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."