Carbon Monoxide Monitor

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

canuck

We have a 2004 MKII #1678. Any comments would be appreciated as to your installation of same. Please advise make and model of monitor , where positioned in the boat and any installation tips.
Thanks

waterdog

We put ours in the aft cabin on the starboard hull - a bit below the most forward light.   If I recall CO is not heavier than air and not lighter than air but about the same, so it's not a ceiling mount and it doesn't go near the floor.   We chose the aft cabin as it seems it is most likely area for somebody to die from CO poisoning - main salon always has some ventilation and the forward cabin is away from the sources.   I don't remember what brand we chose. 
Steve Dolling
Former 1988 #804, BlackDragon - Vancouver BC
Now 1999 Manta 40 cat

Ron Hill

Can : As I recall CO is slightly heavier than air, so I mounted mine on the underside of the bottom step of the companion way (infront of the engine).
Ron, Apache #788

tonywright

I put mine in the aft cabin also, to the port side of the engine compartment, and in such a way that it does not obstruct removing the wall in front of the fuel tank.

Tony
Tony Wright
#1657 2003 34 MKII  "Vagabond"
Nepean Sailing Club, Ottawa, Canada

Analgesic

I picked up  a Kidde brand from Lowes this Summer, don't recall model number but it was the only one running exclusively on AA batteries.  So far we've used velcro backing to move it around.  It goes in the aft cabin when my daughters are in there while we are motoring, over the galley when nobody is aft making it easier to hear from the wheel.
Brian McPhillips
Brian McPhillips  1988 #584  M25XP

Stu Jackson

#5
If you haven't, you must read this: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4313.0.html

Hali's story is extremely important.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

waterdog

Help Stu.   

I scanned through the 5 or so pages of the CO mystery alarms and whatever the important message in this story is, it was completely lost on me.   Was the final conclusion that hydrogen gas from batteries charging can cause false alarms on CO detectors?   Is the take away that we should provide adequate ventilation?  Buy the right charger?  What exactly is extremely important?
Steve Dolling
Former 1988 #804, BlackDragon - Vancouver BC
Now 1999 Manta 40 cat

Stu Jackson

Steve, you nailed it -- all of the above. :D
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

waterdog

OK then.  I get high marks for reading comprehension!

One thing that struck me is that people are using battery powered CO detectors.   That is one choice and there is nothing wrong with it.   

For me, I chose to go with a 12 volt unit.  I really don't want CO alarms sounding when the boat is locked up, false or real.  I wired it into the "cabin lights" circuit which is always on when there are humans on the boat.  I don't worry about if the batteries are still good or have some box chirping at me when batteries are low. 

Definitely think carefully about 12 volt vs. battery powered when choosing a new unit.
Steve Dolling
Former 1988 #804, BlackDragon - Vancouver BC
Now 1999 Manta 40 cat

Ken Juul

Several of my friends with 2005 or newer boats from a different OEM are dealing with 12v powered detectors.  The OEM considers them "required safety equipment" therefore they are hardwired to the batteries without a switch.  They apparently have a bigger draw than one would think, will take the standard OEM batteries flat in a week.  They are stuck with the choice of disconnecting the detector or staying plugged in to shore power all the time.  As the warrenty period expires, those that haven't tossed them overboard are getting rewired to a switch.  If you are adding your own 12v model, take Steve's advice and wire it into a circuit that can be shut off when you close up the boat.
Ken & Vicki Juul
Luna Loca #1090
Chesapeake Bay
Past Commodore C34IA

waterdog

Quote from: Ken Juul on November 17, 2008, 12:53:13 PM
Several of my friends with 2005 or newer boats from a different OEM are dealing with 12v powered detectors.  The OEM considers them "required safety equipment" therefore they are hardwired to the batteries without a switch.  They apparently have a bigger draw than one would think, will take the standard OEM batteries flat in a week.  They are stuck with the choice of disconnecting the detector or staying plugged in to shore power all the time.  As the warrenty period expires, those that haven't tossed them overboard are getting rewired to a switch.  If you are adding your own 12v model, take Steve's advice and wire it into a circuit that can be shut off when you close up the boat.

Not just a switch that can be shut off, but a switch that is always going to be on when you have crew aboard.  For me, that meant tying it in to the cabin lights, for others that could be the beer fridge.  Direct to the battery switch would be good...  Avoid a dedicated CO detector switch - you won't remember to turn it on and you would be better served by a battery powered unit.   

How can a technology that runs on a couple of AAs for months suck a house bank dead in a week?   Sounds like the OEM didn't read the data sheet on power consumption when they selected the model.   Mine draws a tenth of an Amp or less...
Steve Dolling
Former 1988 #804, BlackDragon - Vancouver BC
Now 1999 Manta 40 cat

canuck

We installed an Xintex CO Sentinel, model CMD 4MR. West Marine had them on sale last weekend with 20% off and no provincial tax. We wired it to our cabin light breaker and also put in an inline fuse that had tinned wire. All connections were soldered and heat wrapped.
This model only draws 16 milliamps!