Electrical Stuff

[Ken Juul]

I have a split Air conditioning system.  One unit is tied in through the AC accessory switch/breaker, the other is plugged into the outlet in the forward cabin.  I don't like the arrangement and am planning on running a seperate circuit for the front unit.  Called about buying a new push-push switch/breaker unit from the manufacturer.  Very expensive, the parts guy suggested just buying a seperate switch and pop out breaker.  I haven't gotten any farther than the West Marine catalog, but all their pop out breakers and switches are only DC rated. It also recommends that a double pole switch be used on AC circuits, although the rest of the boat isn't.  To keep the panel as standard as possible I would like to use the another push-push type switch if it is reasonably priced. Can anybody tell me what I really need and/or recommend a place to buy the parts.

[Kevin]

Hello: I am installing an AC system and was brousing the site top locate the mfg of the AC breakers. You mentioned that you found the mfg?
Can you give me the name of the AC breaker mfg?

Thanks,

Kevin Silver
kevin.silver@verizon.net

[Stu Jackson]

Ken, when visiting with Jeff Tancock in British Columbia last month, we removed his push button "cabin outlets" circuit breaker.  It was noted for BOTH AC and DC service.  I agree that WMP only shows the DC or AC rating, but most breakers don't care what kinda power you send them, it's only the ratings.  I recommend you go into a local electrical store, or even WM and look at the case of their breakers and find out what they really say.

You might want to consider adding a separate sub-panel to feed the AC to your ac, and I'd use double pole breakers.  I remember Al Watson (former owner of #55) had built a subpanel and lcoated it in the aft settee seat back hole of the nav station.  It might have only been DC, but the concept applies.  I thought I'd seen pitcures of it on his website, but looked and couldn't find it.  Maybe he'd sent me pcitures of it and had never posted it.

PS - I've emailed you a copy of email text he'd sent me in 1998 for his alternating current new panel.

[jmnpe]

The thermal breakers made by ETA I believe are a drop-in replacement, or maybe even the original manufacturer, of the push-on/push-off breakers used in the older(?) C34 panels. There are multiple pole breakers available in this general configuration, but they are lots larger in size and price. In a boat full of single pole breakers, I don't think it is worth the trouble and money to go to 2 pole breakers anywhere but the main AC input breaker.

The root part number for the ETA breaker with P-on/P-off switching, a 3/8" treaded mounting neck, and push-on .25" spade terminals is 2-5700-iG1-P10-DD-xxA, where "xx" is the breaker amperage rating. They are available from both Allied Electronics ( www.alliedelec.com ) and DigiKey ( www.digikey.com ) They cost less than $20 each. You can check online stock at either web site. You can also go to www.e-t-a.com and go to the Product section and then to the link for "Distributor Stock", enter the 2-5700 root part number, and you will get a maybe-current listing of who has what and how many pieces of each.

Having said that, I am not a big fan of thermal breakers, particularly when used with .25" spade terminals such as used on the C34, and very particularly when using ratings higher than about 10 amps. As the burned wires and terminals will indicate if you look at your main, A/C, and water heater breakers in the older C34 panels, spade terminals + movement+ salt water + time = lots of bad electrical connections and lots of heat at the terminals and the breaker itself. At about 10 amps and below, they are usable but not great. I much prefer magnetic breakers like the Carling toggle series ( also better know to boaters as Blue Sea brand toggle breakers sold through WM and others ).

If you must stick to the thermal breakers for size compatibility, you can improve reliability by going to the screw terminal version of the ETA breaker and have a better chance of keeping the power connections tight over a longer period of time. Just substitute "K10" for "P10" in the part number.

By the way, the sudden failure of thermal breakers in the C34 in high current circuits is very common as some of our boats get older. My main breaker on Otra Vez went from allowing the A/C to work normally one day to popping as soon as I turned on the A/C compressor the next day. I replaced the breaker and all was well.

Hope this answers some of the questions.

John

[Ken Juul]

The original post is so old (Jan 02) I had forgotten I wrote it!  Pretty neat how the site updates the avatar and signature block automatically.

Thanks for the latest info John.  I figured there had to be a source for replacement switch/breakers I just couldn't find it.

I ended up making a sub panel, I mounted it aft of the main panel above the 110 outlet at the navsta.  Standard pop out breakers and toggles to turn the power off for servicing etc.  Think I got the breakers/switches at Radio Shack.

[Hawk]

I am up in Vancouver Canada and first time posting. This site is a fantastic resource...thanks to everyone. I have been searching for the breakers mentioned above. ETA advised that none are presently stocked in Canada but referred me to Nedco Electronics in USA. The LA office had both the 20A and 15A breakers in stock and are shipping them to me. The part #s set out above are the same although the screw terminal model is "K10" rather than "P10" in the model number.

[jmnpe]

A wise move! As I noted in my previous posting, push-on spade terminals are out of favor with me, especially at anything over about 10 amps since they are just a problem waiting to happen. I always will use screw terminals ( the "K10" version I mentioned ) on circuit breakers and almost anything else aboard a boat for improved reliability.

Welcome to the site!

John
C34 Otra Vez
1988 wing keel
Hull 728