Maxwell VW500 Maintenance (Windlass)

[tonywright]

I have searched the board on this topic, but could not find the answer to the following question regarding the VW500 windlass:

How exactly do you replace the oil in the gearbox, or top it up from time to time? The owner's manual seems to leave this as an exercise for the owner to discover. (On my 2003 MKII it is vertically mounted btw.)

Is it as simple as filling it from the top of the unit, after removing the cap and screw, or maybe the drum and shaft as well?  There appears to possible be a drain screw under the unit on the drawings on the manual also, but unclear if this is what it is.

The manual recommends CRC3097 long life to protect the top works of the winch. Googling suggests that this is only available in Australia and NZ. Is there a North American equivalent, other than WD40?

Thanks

Tony

[Tom Soko]

Tony,
There is an excellent article in the February Mainsheet about Maxwell Windlass maintenance.  It's in the C380 section, and it may not be for your model, but there is a lot of good info in it.

[tonywright]

Tom

Yes I saw the article on the Freedom 800. As you say it is a different model, and all the good words don't seem to apply much to the VW500.

Here's what I have found out so far. Joe Lima at Maxwell Marine service recommends a gear oil change every five years, or if you discover a leak. It requires disassembly of the unit, and he recommends that I get more info when I plan to do it (for me, in 2 year's time.) He recommends replacing the seals when this is done.

Every year the clutches require greasing with a good quality waterproof grease. You need to remove the drum and chainwheel to do this. Only the sloped contact edge requires greasing.  He says that for models built after about '95, it is no longer necessary to grease the shaft, due to the improved seal installed. I pointed out the problems with the manual, which he agreed has errors, and he is contacting Maxwell HQ to get addressed. ( it says to follow steps 5, 12, 13 and 14 of installation. But installation does not go beyond step 12.)

Has anyone out there done any of this on their VW500?  Curious, since many read, but wondering if lack of response means lack of maintenance?

Tony

Tony

[tonywright]

Here is additional information supplied by Joe Lima, for those of you still wondering how to do the oil change.

First, refer to drawing B 200664 in the owner's manual. (Attached below)

Joe confirms: "The only way to add oil to the gearbox is to remove the windlass from the boat and seperate the spacer tube (item 22) from the wormbox (item 26), drain completely and add 2.75 ounces of 90 weight gear oil."

Re the confusing instructions in the manual for maintenance:  I asked: "Page 19 item 1 says to follow steps 5, 12, 13 and 14 of installation. However installation steps only go to 12. Which steps should be followed here?"

Joe's response:  "Just follow steps 5 and 12." 

Tony

[ken003]

Tony or anyone else,

I was wondering if you ever removed your VW500 windlass?  I need to remove mine.  It is leaking oil at the joint between the motor and the worm box.  I figure the seal (part #34) must be bad.  I have removed everything above the deckplate including the 4 bolts (#11) which I believe screw into the spacer tube (#22).  The windlass will not drop out with me pulling down on it.  I thought I would ask for suggestions before getting more vigorous with it.

One thing I found out on it was that the upper and lower clutch cones were reversed in the factory installation.  The lower clutch cone with grub screw was installed above the chainwheel.  The windlass had been working fine however.

Thanks for any help,
Ken

[tonywright]

Hi Ken

I haven't had to do mine yet, so sorry, can't help. Please let us know if you find a solution!
Tony

[Meerkata]

While on the subject of the windlass, can anyone tell me how best to join 2 pieces of chain and have them fit through the windlass? I could try those connecting links with the threaded piece in the middle, but I fear that these links might jam/break a cog on the windlass. I could take the 2 pieces of chain to a welder, but that means carting a whole lot of steel to and frow to the welding shop. Plus an hourly rate for the welding.
My question is, can I safely use those expansion links (above), and do they have enough strength to hold the boat in all weather conditions?
Thanks, Jim

[Stu Jackson]

I recommend a connecting link, which is two pieces that each have two protrusions that you link onto the chain and then peen the protrusions down.  It'll eventually look like a single chain link.  Do NOT use a quick link, it's NOT strong enough. 

[Ron Hill]

Meerk: I seriously doubt if there is any chain link connector out there - that will make your gypsy think is a real properly sized link!!!  Strength isn't the issue - it's size & exact shape!!
Personally, I wouldn't try it or advise trying it for fear of screwing up the gypsy!!!
Call your windlass manufacture and ask them your question and I'll guess they'll tell you the same thing. 
I'd just bite the bullet and buy the length of chain that you need.