Battery Equalization-Trojans T105

[Roger Blake]

I have 4 Trojan T105s...2 batteries wired in series for a 12v bank...2 banks. I have the Trucharge 20. I've searched the site and read about equalization, read the Trucharge manual, and read the Trojan manual. Based on other research on the web, I have the following questions: 1)Trojan states the vent caps are to be in place during charging...I assume that includes during the equalization process...is that correct? 2)I've read where one needs to turn off anything connected to the batteries during equalization to avoid damage to those connected items...I've also read to disconnect them. Is having everything turned off at the electrical panel sufficient? Is there a possibility of damage to the electrical panel? The only directly connected device to the batteries I have is the bilge pump...so I know that has to be disconnected. 3)For those of you with T105s that have equalized them, can you provide guidance on what you did and how? Thanks in advance...plan on equalizing the batteries tomorrow...if the specific gravity isn't within parameters.

[Bill Asbury]

Hi, Neighbor.  I apparently have the same four T105 housebank as you have and am wondering about equalizing.  Formerly had an old Heart inverter and equalizing seemed quite straightforward with that setup but have replaced the inverter with a Zantrex 20 and am not sure how to go about equalizing.  Otherwise, my boat's electrical system seems to be operating efficiently.

Bill

[Craig Illman]

Roger & Bill -

Worth reading:

http://www.amplepower.com/primer/equal/index.html
http://www.amplepower.com/primer/break-in/index.html
http://www.amplepower.com/primer/hydro/index.html
http://www.amplepower.com/primer/manage/index.html

& most everything else here at www.amplepower.com/primer/

What does your Xantrex Truecharge manual have to say? 
http://www.xantrex.com/web/id/462/docserve.aspx

1) I'd leave the caps in place to prevent any boil-over.
2) yes, since it hits over 15 volts, disconnect the electronics, make sure the stereo doesn't have a lead to the battery side of your switch to maintain it's memory.
3) My Trojans are less than a year old, I haven't gotten to equalization yet. I'd suggest picking up or borrowing a hydrometer.

It's good you're thinking about doing this, you'll be maximizing your investment.

Craig

[David Sanner]

Good links Craig...

I wouldn't worry about having your bilge pump being
connected, just don't run it while you are equalizing.

I've never disconnected my stereo when equalizing
and have never had a problem.  I think many are capable
of handling high voltages but check the manual or do
so at your own risk.

I've had my fridge running over 15v (at a high rpm) until
I realized it and turned it off....  it was fine but I recommend
turning it off unless the manual specifically says otherwise.

I usually crack my vent caps but keep them in place to
keep the acid from splashing out.

[Bill Asbury]

Thanks, Craig and David.

Went to the boat and dug out my Zantrex manual and am now ready to equalize with aid of hydrometer.

Bill

[Stu Jackson]

We haven't had any trouble with the stereo (memory) when equalizing either.  Since the start bank doesn't get a workout, we only equalize the house bank.  For the four hours doing that, we just run the ship on the start bank (four hours without music or a ball game is too much to ask ).

[Bill Asbury]

Thanks, Stu.

I'll equalize in the slip while catching up on some good summertime reading.

If you will be at the Annapolis Sailboat Show the painkiller of your choice will be on me.

Bill

[Stu Jackson]

Sorry I won't be east, but if you're ever out here, come by for a sail!

BTW, don't forget to check the water levels after you've equalized.

[Bill Asbury]

Thanks for the invite, Stu.  I'm a former Marin resident and have old friends there and further north in Sebastopol and Clear Lake area, so I'm always looking forward to my next visit to the Bay Area.  Always pick up Latitude 38 at WM to keep up with WC sailing, and have visited with founder/editor Richard Spindler in Mill Valley from time to time.

Am inclined to check the electrolyte level in batteries regularly anyway and appreciate your reminder to check it after equalizing.

Bill

[Mike and Joanne Stimmler]

Trojan batteries are more expensive than most, are they worth the extra cost?

Mike

[Stu Jackson]

Bill, hope to see you here some day

Mike, There's a discussion about that over on co.com right now:  http://www.sailboatowners.com/forums/pviewall.tpl?fno=21&uid=73200280089&sku=2008226204438.76 

Personally, I don't think so.  We bought our batteries a few years ago from American battery in Hayward, CA (12V) and so did Dave Davis (four 6V).  Great price, Dave's are pushing the 6 year envelope and still doing well.  Dave and I answered Ken Ayer's battery replacement question off line, mentioning this, too.

I think battery care, proper charging regimens (including both equipment & attention to care), checking levels, avoiding deep discharges, recharging completely and all that leads to longer life than purchasing a battery because of the name on its case.  There are other reputable 6V manufacturers out there.

[Mike and Joanne Stimmler]

Stu, Interstate is one that I'm looking at now. All the golf cart shops in Sun City AZ are now selling them as replacements. 50,000 old farts can't be wrong...........
Interstates are also available everywhere.

Mike

[Bill Asbury]

Mike, when I bought my '91 C34 in 8/05 it had 4 Trojans in the house bank which I learned were 8 yrs old at that time.  I replaced them with Trojans at the 9 yr mark still functional but with diminished capacity of perhaps 25-50% which might have been due to PO's lack of maintenance, so I was impressed with their durability relative to my prior experience with batteries in general.  More recently had a voltage spike attributed to my old inverter which fried the alternator and starting battery but the Trojans were apparently unharmed.  Replaced the inverter with a Zantrex Trucharge 20.

Bill

[Steve S.]

Have never equalized batteries before, but plan to.  However, I have a question about using the hydrometer.  All the hydrometers I see are long weighted rods.  How does one check the Specific Gravity of the acid when the plates are clearly in the way?.  Don't see where (or how) you let the hydrometer float.

[Ken Juul]

The hydrometer can be one of two types.  Can usually find them at an auto parts store or Wal Mart.  The best one looks like a turkey baster with a float in the middle.  Suck the acid into the "baster" to get the float floating.  Read the SG off the scale on the float.  The other type is smaller, usually a flat piece of plastic with a curved tube with a rubber squeeze ball on the end.  Again suck up the acid, different colored marbles inside the tube will indicate the SG level.