Windlass Project

Rick Johnson · March 17, 2009, 11:51:31 AM

OK, the final fit went OK. I will need to open up the access to the motor below deck a little more, but the mounting bracket seems very secure and strong. I'm thinking after gelcoating the whole thing, I'll use 5200 rather than fiberglassing the box into the anchor well.

I'm surprised at the thickness of the anchor well. The box and flange I made are a little thicker and the top will finish out about 1" thick. 8 stainless steel bolts hold it in place and once I add the 5200 it will be a dry/secure place for the motor...

I'm still considering cutting the corners off at about 45 degrees. That might improve access to the anchor rode.

Now I just need the #2 cable and the foot switches...

Cheers,

Rick

Stu Jackson · March 17, 2009, 12:44:49 PM

Rick's earlier posts on this are: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4684.0.html and http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4672.0.html

Great job, Rick!

Michael Shaner · March 17, 2009, 05:50:46 PM

Rick, most excellent work...my arithmetic tells me there are at least 10 more pictures! Share dudeman, share!

Rick Johnson · April 12, 2009, 05:38:10 PM

I'm not sure why, but I always feel that electrical work is a dark art understood only by Wizards, Warlocks, Sorcerers, and Mages. Adding in the requirements of the marine environment and I start to consider a small padded room on a mountain top.

I have been working over the long weekend on wiring my new windlass and I decided to use pvc conduit to cut down on chafe points. If anyone wants to tell me if this is a bad idea, please let me know. All comments are appreciated.

I ran my #2 cable the same direction as Ron Hill did with his project. From my starting battery forward of the starboard water tank, into the forward hanging locker and up to the existing wire run behind the teak trim in the forward cabin.

I still need to make a teak box to cover the cable coming out of the hanging locker and my gelcoating of the bracket for mounting the windlass is going to require a bit of sanding. I'm guess next weekend my see it all done.

Thanks,

Rick

P.S. Yes, I'm missing a clip in the last photo. The ones I'm testing with are zinc plated and I did not want to buy a whole bunch. The "real" ones are stainless steel on order from McMaster-Carr. My other thought is to fiberglass the conduit in, but I'm not sure its needed.

Rick Johnson · April 12, 2009, 06:51:23 PM

Oops, I guess I should include this one also...

Ted Pounds · April 13, 2009, 08:57:01 AM

Rick,
Looks like a nice job.

I like the conduit idea, but I think there is potential for chafe where the wires enter and exit the conduit. I think you should make sure the cut edges of the conduit are smooth. And even better would be to stuff some foam in the ends to protect the wire and eliminate any movement. Just a thought...

Ron Hill · April 13, 2009, 05:10:15 PM

I've always favored wires in clear water hose or split Lome for protection. A thought

Michael Shaner · April 13, 2009, 05:35:27 PM

Looks real nice Rick!

There appears to be a much more suitable substrate in the aft end of the anchor locker to mount the platform to in the Mk II vs. MkI...

Ron Hill · April 14, 2009, 02:46:38 PM

Michael : As I mentioned in my Mainsheet Windlass article (inside a double door anchor well 1986/87/88) - the 1989 and subsequent production C34 anchor wells were made for a windlass !

Stu Jackson · April 14, 2009, 05:03:25 PM

Ron's article may be found right here on our C34 wiki: http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Windlass_Inside_Double_Door_Anchor_Well