Servicing Harken furler

[crieders]

My 18 year old furler turns nicely on the top but seems to grab on the drum. I will replace the original line but any suggestions as to what is to be lubricated and checked? Any link for that? Can it be done with the rigging in place? Thanks PS what is the length and size of that line?

[Stu Jackson]

Cliff, my understanding is that Harken has a pretty good website.  I would try there, first.  The length of the replacement line is dependent upon the size of your jib and how much line you have "stacked" inside the drum.  Only you can tell what that needs to be for your replacement.

[Jon Schneider]

Never lubricate a furler mechanism, even with so-called dry lubricant.  I'm pretty sure all of the major furler manufacturers warn against this.  You probably need to take the drum apart, check for wear, and clean it.  Salt will really screw it up if you don't (and even if you do) flush it after every use.  Length and size of the furling line partially depends on the type of furler and the placement of your blocks.  I think mine is 5/16th @ 50'.

[crieders]

got some helpful info from Harken and a rigger friend of mine. The window may be at right angles to the first block and too close. Apparently the window is suppose to be 4 to 5 feet away from the first block and at a 10 degree upward angle. If my first block were that far away, the line would rub against the  side of the window (opening) which explains a lot. Do others have the recommended set up?

[Jon Schneider]

got some helpful info from Harken and a rigger friend of mine. The window may be at right angles to the first block and too close. Apparently the window is suppose to be 4 to 5 feet away from the first block and at a 10 degree upward angle. If my first block were that far away, the line would rub against the  side of the window (opening) which explains a lot. Do others have the recommended set up?

Cliff, did you translate this from French?  What the devil does a window have to do with your furler? 

[Stu Jackson]

Cliff, if by the window, you mean the opening in the furling drum, then it seems to mean that you need to adjust the "window" on the furler and your first block so that they meet the criteria described by the manufacturer.  I don't have a Harken system, but I'm sure hundreds of C34 owners do and have managed to find a way to make it work.  Perhaps some of them have pictures and can post.  You should find out how to adjust the window (if indeed it can be moved) and make the furling line work properly.

[Jon Schneider]

Ah, so that's a "window."  Cliff, place the first block on the aft support of the bowsprit and position the aperture into the drum in line.  Now that I re-read your original post, can you better explain what you mean "seems to grab on the drum"?  Did you mean that the furling line is getting caught in this "window"?  Or do you mean that when you try to hand roll the drum, it doesn't roll smoothly.  If it's the latter, then the line is not the issue; you've got an internal mechanical problem. 

[crieders]

"Window" is what Harken calls the opening. It does not roll smoothly.  The rigger and Harken tech guy are certain its not the mechanism but rather the locale of the window and the short run I now have from the block to the "window".  I am not sure how to move the opening on my vintage equipment (1990) but I did get a page from an old manuel. Sounds easier than it looks.

[Jon Schneider]

I can't advise you on how to move the "window" of your drum either, because I've got a Mk III Harken furler, and I suspect it's different from yours.  It sounds, however, as if you're getting remote advice from your rigger friend.  If that's the case, I'd to know why they feel that way.  You have not specifically said that you see the furling line getting snagged on the "window."  If that's the case, then yes that's the problem.  If that's not the case, then you need to hand turn the drum to see if it catches anywhere in its rotation.  If that's the case, then you've got a mechanical issue, probably a bad ball bearing or two. Either way, if you can't get the documentation online or from Harken, I think you're going to need to get local expertise on the case.

[crieders]

Hand turning is a good idea and when I replace the old genny with the repaired new one, I will try that. Thanks

[Jon Schneider]

Actually the best time to try it order to ge a benchmark is when there's no sail.  Regardless, try it now to see what the problem is Ior where).

[mnewber]

Harken manual says to flush with warm soapy water and then rinse.  as they said above they recomend not to use any lubricants.  You don't mention the extent of the friction or binding, is it on every wind of the drum or only at one end ie furling or unfurling.

I had a problem that has been happening on mine where it wouldn't roll all the way out when unfurling.  It would roll out like a greased pig until i needed the last two turns and then it would be harder than, well an ungreased pig.    I had thought that my problem was the top swivel/drum but didn't STOP to think it out.  pulled down the sail and inspected.  Everything worked fine   cleaned the top drum and removed all off the corrosion on the stainless connectors, so that parts good for another 10 years!  

Raised the sail back up and of course the wind started blowing so it made taking it up twice as hard a it should have been
Rolled it back up and the same thing then I saw that the line on the drum was getting jammed.  I furled it back up and looked inside the drum.  I noticed that there were several wraps around the drum sitting inside still wound aroud the drum.  

My resolution untie the knot from the line through the top of the drum and unwrap the extra wraps and retie.  Tested to ensure that i had enough in the drum to wrap the entire jib up and it works like new.

Not sure this is your problem but thougt i'd share my issue.

[Kyle Ewing]

Halyard tension also affects it.  If the halyard isn't tight enough it'll bind.

[Stu Jackson]

Based on mnewber'sl input, conventional wisdom indicates that slight pressure should be applied to the furling line when the jib is being deployed, regardless of what manufacturer of furling gear you have.  Sorry, just another guy trying to avoid reading the directions!   

[crieders]

It binds as I get 2/3 of the sail in. It is possible that the forestay is not as tight as it should be. I appreciate these suggestions and will check them out.