Raw water hoses

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Jack Hutteball

Has anyone with a M35B engine replaced the raw water hose that runs from the pump on the front of the engine and connects to the HX on the bottom at the port side, on your Mk ll?  Not a lot of room to work there.  Any suggestions?  My hose is leaking at the hose clamp on the water pump connection and tightening the clamp to the max will not stop it.  There is not enough hose to cut it back to good hose and reconnect it.  I also assume it is just a plain hose and not formed as the bends in it are slight.

Jack
Jack and Ruth Hutteball
Mariah lll, #1555, 2001
Anacortes, Washington

Ron Hill

#1
Jack : The hose you mention is on the pressure side of the pump and nylon reinforced hose is OK to use. 
If your hose clamp is the culprit that cut into the hose, you might want to use a leather strip as a buffer between the clamp and the hose.  I do that for all of the small fuel hose clamps and on the silicone hump hose.  A thought.   :D
Ron, Apache #788

Jack Hutteball

Thanks Ron.  I got after the project today and took the old hose off first so I would know how long a piece I would need.  It turned out to be wire reinforced, so that is what I replaced it with, about 29".  It was a bear to get apart.  No less than 10 cable ties tying hoses and electrical runs together.  The hardest part is that there is no access on the port side of the Mk II to get at the engine.  You must work from the top and underneath the aft cabin.  You can't really see the bottom port HX connection so it has to be done by feel.  What I thought would be a simple 1 hour job to replace a hose took me about 4 hours.  But the job is done, no leaks, and I am ready to go sailing.

I dread having to get at the starter or solenoid when that needs work.  Might be easier to pull the engine.javascript:void(0);
Jack
Jack and Ruth Hutteball
Mariah lll, #1555, 2001
Anacortes, Washington

foursailing

Jack - Per my previous post, I am in the process of replacing that hose.  I pulled the heat exchanger and had the brackets re-welded. (seems like I'm not the first person to have that weld fail)  It wasn't too bad pulling that hose once HX was disconected

I'm looking to re-connect everything on Friday - unfortunately I'm trying to replicate the original routing of hoses (including some fuel lines) - looked pretty straight forward when I was disconecting everything - but now that its time to put everything back together, can't remember if the hoses when above, over or next to the HX.  Looking for a picture of the HX area to help out.

By the way, while you are in that area check the raw water hose that feeds into the exhast elbow - mine was rubbing against the plywood above and was worn half way through
Bill Dwyer
#1446, 1999
RICOCHET, Keyport NJ

John Langford

I am working on a similar project on my MkII, cleaning out the heat exchanger and changing out a cracked end cap and gasket. It is much easier to work back there if you take out the wooden engine cover box that separates the engine from the aft cabin interior. There are only four screws to remove (two on upper port side of the box facing the port side bulkhead and two on the upper starboard side facing forward) and you can lift the box right out and put it in the saloon for the duration. Access to the heat exchanger connections is then really easy and you can get a lot of light on the job as well. I don't know why Catalina doesn't make this more obvious and easier by using the same sort of fittings that they use on the 320 engine covers. Then you wouldn't even have to undo the screws.
Cheers
John
"Surprise"
Ranger Tug, 29S

Norris Johnson

I also remove the box aft of the engine. Mine had 7 screws. I went back with 4. It doesn't take 5 mins once you have done it once. I remove it to change the HE zinc. I also remove the HE to treat it with Limeway. When I have the HE removed and treated, I can wash it easier. My engine temp never excedes 160F.
Paisano
Catalina 36 MkII 95
Hitchcock, Texas

canuck

Suggest you all with M35B check the hoses leading to the HW tank. They can also rub against a plywood bulkhead (with very sharp edges)on the port side in the engine compartment.. Just look for the little tailings. I've split a piece of hose (non wire insert) lengthwise and wrapped the offending hose with electrical ties.

Jack Hutteball

Guess I should have looked at taking off the cover over the engine in the aft cabin!!  It sure was a bear to work in there.  Bill, I did notice the chafed water line to the exhaust rise, just like yours.  Mine was not too bad, so put it on the replacement list and strapped it away from the bulkhead.  Since I only took out one hose, everything went back pretty much the same way it was.
Jack
Jack and Ruth Hutteball
Mariah lll, #1555, 2001
Anacortes, Washington