Rebedding Chain Plates.

[Alohman]

We have 1986 c34 which we purchased 2001.  We have no idea how well the bedding of the chain plates has been maintained over the years.  The deck had some moisture at the time of survey, but was not "soaked" or otherwise alarming. We do have a slight leak in the forward two port chain plates.  The Technotes articles regarding rebedding were very helpfull.  Obviously complete removal of the chainplates and screws, re-expoxying, etc is the best method to avoid water intrusion into the deck as well as solving the drip.  We called around to see how much it would cost to have someone else do this work. (we already have a long "to do" list and we are thinking of having some work on the "list" done by the yard).  The rigging company (in annapolis) estimate REQUIRED we removed the mast (roundtrip down and back up, crane and labor,$1000. Our yard will not allow boatowners to take down their own masts.  Removal, epoxy, redrill holes, rebed, assuming no serious deck issues, approximately ($70/hr)$1200-$1500 for all 6 chain plates, retuning the mast $120 - $150.  Obviously there is no way we are spending that kind of money on this project. (just thought you might find the prices interesting)

This boat has a deck stepped mast.  The technotes article indicates that the boatowner simply removed one stay from each side,expoxy,rebed, etc and then did another set.  Is iot safe to remove two of the stays with a deck stepped mast?  The rigging company seemed adament that the mast must come down for stability reasons(their liability issues perhaps?).

Thanks, Vicky Lohman

[Stu Jackson]

Vicki

Suggest you use the search engine from this message board, upper right.  Type in chainplates.  Hit search.  Should show three posts.  The last one is the one right up your alley.

Stu

[Larry Calfee]

We are facing the same problem with our boat,  Last weekend I resealed three chain plates.  This is sort of a take it for what its worth suggestion.  In repairing these chainplate leaks, I did not remove tension from the shrods.  I loosened the plate surrounding the chainplate, removed the old caulk down round the plate where it extends though the deck and applied a new coat of "Lifecaulk".  In the process I also backed out the screws lateral to the chainplates and applied the same lifecaulk under the washer and screw head.  Holding the exterior head in possition, my mate tightened the nut from below.  So far I have not have further leaks here.  I would try this before spending thousands of dollars in the yard.  It isn't that hard to do and I believe it will work for you.

[c34member]

One of the reasons I like Catalina's split lowers rig is that the lowers only will support the mast (when rigging, derigging - not intentionally while sailing).  So will the uppers & fore/backstays only.  Therefore, you can do the four outside chainplates as a group and at a different time the two inner ones.  Some of those other companies have a single chainplate on each side - tell the yard you have a real sailboat.

I tried something different last time I rebedded a leaker.  I routed out all around the opening with a 1/8" cherry bit on my Dremel, trying to get down at least 1/4".  (Then sucked out the dust with a vacuum hose).  I hope this makes a better (thicker and stretchier) gasket around the chainplate.  I also wiped down the chainplate and bottom of the cover plate with Boat Life primer, which is supposed to make their caulk stick to the metal better.  Time will tell.

[Captain Bob]

After using the caulk and cranking down on the bolts you also need to resist the impulse the try and tighten the bolts again. If you do manage to move the bolt just a fraction you will break the bond between bolt and caulk and all your work will need to be redone. With the three sets of chainplates on each side of the Catalina it is very do-able to do one set at a time at the dock without risk to the mast.