Washdown pump installation

[Jeff_McKinney]

Good day all,

I'm researching the installation of a raw water washdown pump on my '06 Mk II. I am planning on tapping either the through-hull from sea to head (never used) or the macerator outlet (also never used) for the water supply. Have the pump selected, and strainer, hose, valving, and wiring mostly figured out.

The only pieces left are:

1. What type of fitting to use and where to put the water outlet. The fittings: either a stainless faucet (Shurflo) or a surface mount bronze/chrome plated water outlet fitting with cap (Perko). Pros and cons to either device, but am leaning towards the latter (fewer parts to fail, lower profile, easier to winterize and similar price). Any concerns with this approach?

I was thinking about mounting it inside the anchor locker high on the bulkhead between the forward berth area and locker for both as it would be out of sight but readily accessible. I know I've gotta bore a hole to hook it up, but can you wise folks think of the best way to get in there to snake the hose to it (aside from taking off the wooden panel in the forward cabin)? 

2. Any advice on the best place to mount the pump (WM 4 GPM Pro Blaster) would be welcome.

Thanks.

[Ted Pounds]

I would not use the macerator outlet unless you plan on completely removing the macerator.  Other wise if the macerator is ever used you'll be pumping sewage (albeit a small ammount) through your deck washdown.  On my boat I did remove the macerator as they are not legal on Lake Michigan.  I replaced the macerator pump w/ the washdown pump (same footprint) and used the simple Perko fitting in the front port side of the anchor locker.  The MK I's have a screw-in deck plate in the anchor locker that allowed me access.  Not sure how the Mk II is laid out.  The drawback to not having a faucet is that you have to hook the hose and sprayer up before you turn on the pump.  That didn't bother me because I didn't use it much.  If you're going to use it a lot you might consider the faucet.

[Jeff_McKinney]

Ted,

Thanks for the advice. Macerators are a no-no on the Chesapeake (need to be secured in the closed position) so taking that approach may be a viable option. Of course, if I take it off that's one more thing to store and lose in the basement at home.

I just saw a drawing that showed a Y-valve hooked to the thru-hull for the intake TO the head and the two lines branching off of that which could also work, but need to take lots of measurements first.

[Ron Hill]

Jeff : I've used a Rule bilge pump that I put over the side (wrote it up in the Mainsheet) and still use it today (20 yrs later)!!  You could also mount a wash down pump on a board, set it on deck and plug it in.  I believe that's alot easier than drilling thru all of the bulkheads to get a hose up to the anchorwell! 
A thought.   

[David Arnold]

I'm wondering what the logic is behind washing down the boat with salt water.  With the exception of bird dropings or dirt I rinse the boat to get the salt off???

[Jeff_McKinney]

David,

I don't know what the bottom crud is like up your way, but the stuff down here is a thick, black, smelly, gooey concoction that gets all over everything, sticks like cement and will leave discoloration on the gelcoat. Rinsing it off while still soft is the key. Sometimes flinging buckets of water at it will not be enough, hence the value of the 40 or so PSI that a washdown pump generates. Once I get back to the dock I use fresh water to rinse everything.

Besides, they are great for water fights at sea on a hot day!

Let's see: one super-soaker, 20 PSI and 1 quart of water vs. a hose, 40 PSI & jet nozzle with the entire Chesapeake Bay...

Ron: I like your "pump on a board idea and will look into it as a possibility, especially since after further inspections there is no removable plate in the back side of the anchor locker or other clean shot to it in a Mk 2 without pulling the forward cabin bulkhead, many contortions and a liberal supply of those "special" words.

Anyone out there with a Mk 2 that has done found a reasonably easy way to snake the line forward from the head area?? Otherwise Ron's approach is looking better and better.