Current Anomaly

[NRJ]

My bank and I purchased a 1990 Calalina 34 in Aug '06.  Not sure about the bank, but it's my first boat.  Needless to say I've been in 'boat owner school' for the past 5 months.

My most recent challenge is trying to figure out why I have a 4-5 amp current draw on my cabin light DC circuit...with no lights on at all!  No other DC switches do this.  The problem is a new one...showing up only after some engine work was done and the mechanic 'correcting' some seemingly strange alternator wiring done by the previous owner.  I can't see where this would have any connection to my current problem (pun intended) but it's the only thing that's changed...as far as I know.  That, and a malfunctioning Espar...also a new ailment.

I can't figure why any of this would affect the cabin light circuit only...or what else might be the cause.  In any case, I'm wondering if anyone out there might be able to point me in the right direction.

Thanks,

NRJ

[Mark Wey]

NRJ

First of all congrats to you and your bank. More to you though.

Secondly, you are right, and no this is not a safe condition. There has to be a closed circut for you to get a reading like you are. I just want to caution you regarding the electric panel on your boat. I also have a 1990 that I purchased 4 years ago. One of my major disapointments with the boat was the quality of the DC wiring. While I think it was more a symptom of the time. Common as far as boat building went in that era. It was scary. I had switches that appeared off that were really on. etc.etc. I bit the bullet and ordered a new panel from Seaward. It was about a nine hour job to replace the panel. But well worth the effort. It looks outstanding as it is the same design as the new boats.

While I am not an electrician. .There are many on this board who can answer your questions a lot better than I can. But this is a no-brainer. A fire is certainly a possibility

Since then I have done a number of other upgrades all with the help of this board. It is one great asset. You will love the boat.

Welcome!

Mark

[David Sanner]

Doesn't sound like it would be related to the alternator if it's only effecting the
the light circuit.... you never know but I would look at the lighting wiring first.

I would start by making sure all of your lights are working and then switching them all off.
(you could even remove all of the bulbs to make sure there is no corrosion)

Next I would try to separate the lighting wiring on the back of the electrical panel
and try testing each wire run one at a time and see if you have any current draw.
(test by connecting them to the breaker one at a time or test the positive side
(what was connected to the breaker) to see if there is any continuity to ground)

In simpler words, find the wiring run for the port side of the boat and disconnect it
from the panel.  If you are still seeing a current draw continue by doing the same
for the other runs until you find the wiring that has the current draw.  Then investigate
that wiring for chafe, shorts, corrosion, problems with a light fixture/bulb, bad
wiring in a florescent fixture,  etc.

If, when separated each run has a current draw then (though I don't know how) you
have a problem somewhere else and you might want to call the mechanic to find out
exactly what he did to your wiring. 

Either way keep that switch off until you locate your problem... 4-5 amps can
could turn into a lot more and potentially start a fire if the breaker/fuse doesn't
protect the circuit.

Good Luck.










(Or do a continuity test

[Stephen Butler]

Congratulations on the new (to you) C34!  We had a similar problem in our 1990 model, and essentially did as David suggested.  Turned out to be a short in the back of the electrical panel...a wire had pulled off and was making contact with another lug.  Tightened up everything, gave it a good shot of corrosion protective, and it has been fine ever since.  However, we did add a new electrical system to our list of eventual up-grades. 17 to 20 year old electrical systems make us nervous.  Good luck with the new C34; it is a great boat.

[Jon Schneider]

To David's point, if you discover that the short is in one of the lines, it's possible that it's in one of the light switches.  The dome lights used in 1990 (at least mine) can be easily disconnected, so I would start by identifying the line as Dave suggested and then unsnapping the two terminals in each of the dome lights to see if one of their switches is the problem.  Unfortunately, the lamps in the berths are hard-wire butted, but if you've elminated the dome lights, then you'll have narrowed the source. 

[Bob K]

I had a short in my cabin light circuit that I eventually traced to a pinched wire under a stanchion backing washer!  The lighting circuit in my '92 consists of a single  pair ( + and -) of wires which run from the panel forward along the port side to the bow and then around and down the starboard side and terminates in the aft cabin.  A single circuit for all cabin lights.  Disconnecting the dome light switches as Jon suggested is a good idea, but it did not help me.  I had to cut the positive wire in several spots before I found the location of the problem -  and then I couldn't beleive it after I found it.  Probably was almost shorted for a long time, and eventually wore through.  So if you or the PO rebedded the stanchions, you might want to feel around under each one to ensure the wires run free.   And yes, 4 orr 5 amps is a healthy amount of current - you certainly need to find the cause. Let us know the outcome.....

[Mike and Joanne Stimmler]

Congrats on the new boat!!   You're gonna love it!!!
First, I would confirm weather all of your lights are working or not. Visually check any that are not working for obvious problems such as bare wires or corosion at the lights themselves(do all the easy stuff first)and correct what you find. If you still see the high current draw, then start disconnecting the wires from the offending light breaker switch one at a time, checking the current draw after each one is disconnected until you identify the offending wire. Re-connect all the other wires, leaving off the offending wire and re-confirm that the current load is acceptable. Now, check the lights again to see which ones are not working and visually check THOSE light fixtures for obvious trouble. If you think you found and fixed the trouble, then re-connect the wire and check the current draw again to confirm that all is OK. If you're still seeing the high load then you'll have to visually trace the path of the wire looking for shorts, bare wires, corrosion etc.
Good luck on your trouble shooting. Let us know how it works out.

Mike

[Stu Jackson]

Try "Fire!!!": http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=1234.0

Also see John Nixon's comments in "Fridge Failure" -- http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=3044.0

[Ron Hill]

NRJ : Let me also tell you that 4-5 amps is WAY TOO much of a draw with nothing on !!   Pull out your DC wiring diagram and start checking each fixture. 
I cut out all of the "blue" wire connectors to the cabin light wires.  From that experience it's almost easier to completely rewire all cabin light using marine grade tinned wire.  A thought.