Prop Shaft & Cutless Bearing

[Craig Illman]

I haven't taken advantage of the C36 Org toolbox, but I think you just re-imburse Tom Senator for the postage/shipping when you return the tool. After Ron's posting, I think we all just need to join Fleet 12. 

Craig

[Stu Jackson]

Continued at: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=3318.0

[Mike Vaccaro]

Bob,

A few thoughts on shaft wear: 

Silicone bronze is the ideal material for a prop shaft for our boats, especially in salt water.  It's strength is more than adequate, and it's corrosion resistance is outstanding.  If you have a bronze prop, nut, etc.  It is the best material to use for a shaft.  Stainless is becoming very popular, but only AQ22 is recommended for use in salt water.  It would be the desired material if you have a prop or shaft seal with stainless components.  Mixing metal below the waterline is simply building a better battery.  When you install components, you should attempt to keep the metal as homogeneous as practical--which might mean switching to stainless.  Regardless, proper maintenance of the shaft zinc is critical.  Some shaft couplings electrically isolate the running gear from the engine, which is good.  The stock coupling supplied by Catalina does not.   

With a conventional gland, there is generally some wear around the area exposed to the packing.  Unfortunately, this is usually the result of over-tightening the gland in an attempt to stem the flow of water.  But your reward for minimal shaft wear is a wet bilge.  Quite a few posts regarding packing material and adjustment; but the bottom line is that if you desire a dry bilge and want to avoid shaft wear completely, a mechanical seal is the solution, although some folks have had good luck with gore-tex packing or other "dripless" products. 

If your shaft is worn, you can simply re-pack, but if you want to keep the wear under control, accept some leaking--or you can install a mechanical seal assuming the collar does not mount in the same location that the shaft is worn.  The popular PSS seal has a stainless collar and screws, which is NOT ideal for mounting on a bronze shaft, but may prove to be adequate for a few years.  Unfortunately, to install the seal, the shaft has to be removed.   

If you decide to replace the shaft, you might consider having one turned at a local machine shop--if you do, you are assured of proper fit when you replace it. 

The most inexpensive solution is to simply re-pack.  You may want to upgrade your packing material to gore-tex.  Even with conventional flax, you may get many years of service out of your slightly warn shaft--especially if you don't mine some water in the sump.  Also, you can change the 1 5/8" ID hose that attaches the gland to the shaft log--by adjusting the length, you are changing the spot that the packing nut tightens, thus moving your packing to a point on the shaft that is not worn.

Cheers,

Mike

[isabel98]

If you've removed the shaft you can easily remove the cutless bearing with a hack saw blade , small screwdriver and hammer. Just score the bearing with the saw blade and then gently fold it onto itself using the screwdriver and a few taps of the hammer. the bearing will come right out once you bend it a little. I have recently completed this project including shaft (SS), coupling, bearing, and folding prop install. I will provide any info you need just email skisail42@aol.com with your questions. 

[Stu Jackson]

Since not everyone is a member of a local fleet, our intent was to provide a C34 IA tool.  The  IA offer to purchase one was declined, although it would be offered by one member as a loaner at some cost to those who would like to borrow it.  It seems like lots of you already have the tool.  For those that would be willing to loan it, why not just perk up here and let folks who may need it know you're willing, and just find each other.  Alternatively, try the C36 IA Associate Membership.  I guess, after all, the point is that there seem to be enough out there that we may not need to have the C34 IA provide one, unless, as previously suggested, one of you would volunteer to do so.  The C36 IA provided me with details of how they manage their loaner, which isn't difficult or time consuming.

[Bob K]

All,
Thanks for the advice and pointers regarding cutless removal, shaft wear, etc.  Mike, I especially like your suggestion to change the length of the hose to move the packing wear point on the shaft.  Well, I took advantage of the beautiful weather today and removed my cutless bearing.   My home-made press did not work, as the brass on the old cutless was soft and it crumbled and deformed when pressure was applied.  The hacksaw and screwdriver method did the trick.  I was somewhat alarmed at the soft metal on the cutless ends - it was slightly pink, and looked like it was galvanically corroded.  I also saw evidence of this on the bearing surface of the strut also.  So I am wondering if a zinc is needed on the strut.  Has anybody else seen anything like this?

[Jack Hutteball]

Bob,
I had noticed some pitting on strut and it was recommended that I install a zinc there.  I installed a clamshell zinc on the strut and I have had to replace it twice in 3 years.  No more problems with my strut.
Jack