Softening Deck at Stanchions

Sundance · November 21, 2006, 10:04:03 AM

Has anyone experienced moisture in the deck near the stanchions? In particular the port stanchion also used as the vent for the holding tank. There is actually softening of the deck in this area, and it os onlt a 89'. Is there anything I can do to reclaim the deck or to further stop the softening? I've been told to dry out the core the best I can, remove as much of the core as I can from the stanchion holes and then us an epoxy to fill the area, but I don't know how to do this unless I cover the entire boat for the winter. Does this seem like a feasible solution, any better ideas? I have seen a "penetrating epoxy" in the WM catalogue, has anyone used this before? Any help would be great.

Jon Schneider · November 21, 2006, 10:47:35 AM

You may not have to cover the whole boat, but you should remove the stanchion and plug the holes on the top. Don Casey's book, Sailboat Hull and Deck Repair (http://www.amazon.com/Sailboat-Hull-Deck-Repair-Casey/dp/0070133697/sr=8-3/qid=1164134125/ref=pd_bbs_sr_3/002-6196118-6092828?ie=UTF8&s=books) is great at showing you the technique for curing this problem. Hopefully the extent of the rot hasn't gone more then two or three inches from the hole. Once you've removed the rotted core, let it dry out. I would blow dry it and then add some chemical drying agent to the area for a couple of months. Then follow Don Casey's advice for re-coring with epoxy (one coat without filler; then plug with filler-epoxy). Because the vented stanchion has a larger thru-deck to accommodate the vent, this might be a solitary issue, but it's worth checking the other stanchions and nipping any potential problems in the bud.

Stu Jackson · November 21, 2006, 11:30:12 AM

Jeff

If the potential damage to the core is not extensive, you don't need to dry the boat out for eons, just whack out the damaged core, fill with epoxy, re-drill, remount and go home for the winter.

Since these vented stanchions were invented, there have been all sorts of difficulties with them, and we have almost all of us had to rebed them. A search on the word stanchion (or s) will turn up all the answers to your questions as to how to do this. One of the hits is the Index to the Tech Notes.

I also keep "flogging" the original www.c34.org portion of this website, and suggest to ALL of you with older Mark I boats to get very familiar with Projects and the FAQS (which are, again, NOT how to use the website, but are actually BOAT related questions and answers). Try this: http://www.c34.org/faq-pages/faq-rebedding-stanchions.html

If these don't answer your question about the details of HOW TO, you may want to try the BoatUS website, which has a lot of good articles, under ask the experts, about these kind of details.

Ron Hill · November 21, 2006, 05:43:11 PM

Jeff : You are NOT the "Lone Ranger" with this problem.
Seems as the vented stanchions (also starboard water tank) just happen to be at the mid (& widest) part of the boat where everyone on the dock pulls and pushes on the TOP of those stanchions!!
The factory didn't help matters as they failed to seal the raw cut thru the deck core!!
Also on the older boats most owners (and some yards) re bedded those vented stanchions, but immediately cranked the nut/bolts tight BEFORE the caulk had cured - squirting just about all of it out of that joint!!

With all of that said you've already identified the fix - dig out the dry rot and refill that void with epoxy. You want the epoxy to flow so get one with a longer curing time.

dave davis · November 22, 2006, 12:46:34 PM

There is a product on the market that is made for Dry Rot which sounds like you may be having. It is a very thin watery epoxy that will penetrate the core and sets up as a very hard filler. You have to clean out as much of the effective area and then apply this stuff with a brush. I used it on my daughters house near the drain pipe. It really works. It was years ago and I don't remember the exact name but it sounds like "Git Rot". You may check out WM. page 367.. It is made by Boatlife and is called "Git Rot".

Good Luck. Dave

Jon Schneider · November 22, 2006, 12:59:33 PM

Dave, you're right: it is Git Rot by BoatLife, and it's wonderful stuff for reinforcing rotted wood. It needs, however, to be used on dry rot, not "wet rot," which is so often the case in core failure. So no matter what, that rotting, wet core needs to be removed (otherwise it'll never dry out sandwiched between the glass). I would go with the established Don-Casey method of replacing rotted core with epoxy, which you'd need to do for the holes anyway, and you can't be sure how Git Rot will react with epoxy (although I suspect it's a type of epoxy).

Ron Hill · November 22, 2006, 01:03:37 PM

Guys : Git Rot is an epoxy.

Sundance · November 27, 2006, 10:04:25 AM

Thanks for all the suggestions. It will have to wait till next year though. It sounds like I would be best taking all the stanchions off prior to next winter and covering the boat, letting it dry out through the winter. I don't see a way of drying out the areas without covering the boat.

Jon Schneider · November 27, 2006, 10:17:28 AM

Actually, covering the boat is not the best solution; it keeps moisture inside. Just remove the stanchion(s), rout out the holes to remove the rot and cover the deckside openings with Life Seal (not silicone, which has very little adhesiveness). Make sure you've got plenty of drying agent in the cabin, and, if you can, use a hot air blower to aid the process. This is way better than perpetuating the leak you already have for another year; you'll just extend the wet rot damage by delaying.

Ron Hill · November 27, 2006, 03:27:08 PM

Jeff : I completely disagree with Jon's advise.
I can work in a Tshirt when the sun is out under my dark blue cover - when it's below freezing outside!! Just don't use shrink wrap with no vents and you'll be OK.
I wouldn't wait, but do it this winter. The heat under the cover will help dry out that deck so you can really dig out & fix that roted core this spring.

Jon Schneider · November 27, 2006, 04:21:58 PM

Just to be clear, my advice was not based on hospitable working conditions as a criteria. It was based on two other criteria: 1) ability to dry; and 2) ability to stem the rot's sprawl sooner rather than later, since Jeff said he would not be able to cover his boat this year. To me, when it comes to core rot, I'd be scared sh@%less of having to peel up my deck or gouge out the headliner in order to repair an extensively rotted core due to delay. And Jeff, I don't know where your boat is, but if you're in the northeast, you'll build up a sweat now doing any work on it with the temperature in the 60s as it has been. The prep work is two hours max. Just do it on a warm enough day so the Life Seal will cure. And then leave it alone for the winter (unless you can give it a blow dry once a month). Nevertheless, if you take Ron's advice and wait, I think you'll be able to hit him up for the extra cost in re-coring your deck ;)