Winterizing domestic water

[David Arnold]

In the process of winterizing I ran both water tanks dry before adding anti-freeze.  Now the pump seems to have lost it's prime and I can't get it to pull anti-freeze from either fore or aft tanks.  Any good ideas out there as to what action I can take to restore the prime in the pump?

[Jon Schneider]

Are you absolutely sure you lost the prime?  The leads to my pump have a gravitational prime kind of built in: the water flows naturally when the hoses are disconnected to the pump.  Have you tried removing the hoses to see if the antifreeze will flow?  If it does (or if you can coax it), it may be your filter clogged at a coincidentally inopportune time.  Worst case, you might try partially filling up one of the tanks to increase the pressure.  No matter what, try pulling the filter to decrease the resistance.

[Roc]

David,
Looks like you have a new boat, which tells me this.  The diaphram in the pump might be clogged with bits of plastic, from when the tanks were manufactured.  This might not allow the pump to properly move the liquid through.  It's easy to take apart the pump and check the rubber diaphram.  This might be why it seems to not prime. 

[Ron Hill]

David : Roc has a good point that I wrote up in 1989 after my "new" pump became clogged. 
I found a bunch of "junk/shavings" in the strainer and Flowjet replaced my pump(for free as the motor still operated).  That's why I've published articles recommending the fine mesh screen (w/part #) for the fresh water system and the course screen for the raw water strainer.   

[David Arnold]

Thanks for the input.  It will be another week before I can get back to the boat but I will follow your advise and check the pump for clogged strainer, etc.

[Bob K]

Were you running the hot water faucet? I had a similar experience this year, but the problem did not begin until I opened the hot water spigots.  I believe the pump was trying to fill the hot water tank, and it wouldn't shut off because it ran the water tank dry before filling the hot water tank, so pressure never had a chance to build.  Initially I ran only the cold water from the starboard tank with 2 gal of antifreeze, and all was well - pink water flowed from the cold spigots. Next I tried to winterize the hot water lines from the rear tank with 2 gallons antifreeze, and I ran into the problem.  I think the hot water tank is 6 gallons, and I didn't want to pour another 4 gallons of antifreeze, so I left it as is - air was blowing through all the hot lines at this point, so I guess all is OK, but I'm debating going back an trying something else.

Is there a way to winterize the lines without having to fill the hot water tank?  Is compressed air the better option?

[Momentum M]

Bob, I don't use any RV antifreeze except at the pump (pressure pump) 'cause it's difficult to blow the water out of it. 
I don't know if you've seen a previous discussion on this subjet were I explain my way of winterizing my water lines...and also there's is other way from other fellows.  Take the method that you believe will do the best job for you!!!

So here's the link:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=3215.0

Serge

[Ken Juul]

It is next to impossible to get antifreeze out of the water heater.  I remove the water heater intake line and plug it with a cork and hose clamp.  Drain the hot water heater into the bilge.  When empty I open the hot water fawcets and use lung power to blow the lnes out.  Doesn't take much pressure.  I don't have a cockpit shower, not sure if lung power will clear it.  Add the pink to the water tanks and pump through the cold water system.  Turn off the pump, remove the clamp and cork, should be enough pressure to force the anifreeze through the water heater intake line.  if not bump the pump momentarily.  Return the cork and clamp to the water heater line.   In the spring flush the pink out of the cold water system before reconnecting the water heater.

[Ron Bukowski]

Check the projects for a water heater bypass system. It is made of PVC pipeand three ball valves or by one from WM for a few dollars more. After installing the bypass system, drain the water heater and leave the plug out. Switch the valves to the bypass position and run the anti-freeze through the hot water lines. Non will go into the heater. In the spring, run the antifreeze out of the system, reinstall the drain plug and switch the valves back to fill the heater. It's worked great on North Star for several years.

[Stu Jackson]

Here's another link:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=779;prev_next=next