Garhauer Lift

[Mike and Joanne Stimmler]

I just received my motor lift from Garhauer and won't be going to the boat for another week so that should give me plenty of time to over analize everything. Although it didn't come with any instructions, it looks pretty much self explanatory. Can I assume that the ring that comes with it is a backing plate and the ball mount should be through bolted? In order to get a flat mounting surface for the ball,is the post on the inside or outside of the stern rail?   
Thanks,
Mike

[Craig Illman]

I wish I had a picture, but this is what I did. After hearing that Starboard shouldn't be laminated with epoxy, I found a site, www.professionalplastics.com, that sold me a custom-sized block of Delrin 3.25x3.25x5" ($60). I tasked my father-in-law to get it cut diagonally, to leave me a 3.25" square base. He drilled and countersunk two holes perpendicular to the hypotenuse of the "wedge". We also eased the sharp edges with a round-over bit in a router. We mounted the ring on the aft side of the stern rail and lined the base up to the stern so the hoist column was plumb. Then we drilled through the stern for the two bolts to pass through. We bedded the wedge to the stern with LifeSeal for a little extra adhesion. It's probably not the cheapest solution, but it matches well, is strong and solid. One extra benefit I discovered last week was that the ball for the base made a good place to hang the dinghy bridle when maneuvering in close quarters in the marina. Having the hoist gives me a lot more comfort lowering my outboard onto the dinghy.

[Stu Jackson]

Keep it simple.  With our 1986 boat, the ring goes on the inside of the pulpit.  You slide the lower half of the lift through the ring.  The ball, which is at the base of the vertical pole, goes on the end of the coaming, not on the flat part of the deck (which is sometimes shown in the Garhauer literature photos, but which is from a C30 deck arrangement).  Line it all up before you install anything, and make sure that your lift is high enough to go over the motor mount on the pulpit.  There is absolutely NO need to through bolt the ball, the loads on the screws are only in shear.  Use sealant on the screws and below the ball anyway.  The picture shows the ring on the pulpit and the ball on the coaming.  The lift is not installed in the photo, see next picture.

[Stu Jackson]

See aft starboard side for lift installed -- it's great to hang the anchor light from in a small anchorage.

[Mike and Joanne Stimmler]

Thanks for the pictures Stu, it helped to put everything into perspective and thanks to Craig also for your input. Thia may be simpler than I expected.
Mike

[Ron Hill]

Mike : I mounted mine on the outside of the stern rail.  I cut a circular piece of starboard slightly larger than the 4 screw plate.  I mounted that starboard with one large screw to the lowest outside coming.  Then I screwed the 4 screws into the piece of starboard.
I also made another mod to the lift.  I drilled and taped a small bolt with locknut into the base of the bottom stainless tube.  Then I mounted the bottom tube and screwed the bolt in far enough so it can't be lifted out.  Then turned the nut down so it locks the bolt from turning.  I did this after a friend was removing his lift from the stern and the bottom section fell - and became an offering to the Stainless Steel God (who lives on the bottom).
A thought.   

[Craig Illman]

I'd agree with Stu that simpler is best, but I have stern perch seats in the corners that required the outside mounting. Ron's approach to secure the lower tube sounds prudent as well. After seeing another boat last week with an umbrella for a "poor man's bimini" while on the hook, I'm thinking that big lower base tube might be a good place to slide in the umbrella post too. Most of the time here out west, we don't get too concerned about too much sun.

Fyi, I saw five other C34's up in the San Juan's last week. I'm sure I had one really fooled with my backup Peason 33 mainsail flying.

Craig

[DEMERY]

Mike,

On my 1990 model, built in 1989 I wanted to mount the ring on the upper rail towards the outside and the ball on the top of the transom. I quickly found out that this arrangement would not work (the tube hits the lower rail before coming in contact with the mounting ball). The answer was to have Garhauer extend the ring from the rail mount by about 1 inch. They handled this modification while I waited at no cost.

Good Luck,

[Mike and Joanne Stimmler]

Thanks Guys, lots of great ideas. I'll let you know how it goes.
Mike

[Stu Jackson]

Mike, one other thought maybe not included above:  make sure that wherever you install the lift that the end of it (that picks up the motor) is above the motor.  I know, this seems basic, but I've seen people install lifts (by Garhauer and other manufacturers) simply for the ease of installation and placement of the vertical post.  If the lift isn't over the motor, it requires extra effort to line the motor up when replacing it on the pulpit bracket, making a one man show into extra work.  Also, if not lined up, the motor will shift and slide sideways when first lifting it off.  That's why I put mine where I did, and I assume others who have put theirs in a slightly different place, have made sure of the alignment issue.

[Mike and Joanne Stimmler]

One other question. The boom on the lift is adjustable to either straight 90 degrees or a upward angle. I assume it can be used in either mode depending on what you're lifting and how much of an extension you need. Does this sound accurate?
Mike

[Stu Jackson]

Yes, but I've never seen anyone who has used or needed the "upper" position.

[Howard Armstrong]

I have the Garhauer Lift on my 1988 model and it is mounted outside the rail. The problem i have is that my bimini and the cam cleat are too close making it hard to let the engine down. My thoughts are to remove the cam cleat and replace it with a fail lead and relocate the cam cleat down lower on bottom tube. Is there a better solution that anyone has done? thanks you your input.
Howard

[Ron Hill]

Howard : I have the same problem, but haven't come up with a better solution than just leaving it where it is!!

Kind of a pain to have to work around the Bimini when you need to release the line from the cam cleat. 
Let me think about it.  Your idea of moving the cam cleat has some merit!!   

[Stu Jackson]

You don't need to move the cam cleat.  Just re-reeve the line through the block just in front of the cam cleat and run it down to wherever you like.  For instance, when the lift is up and I'm on the boat, the cam cleat is useful.  When I'm alone and I need to install the engine on the dinghy, I take the line out of the cam cleat and run it down to either the dock (if I'm there) or to the aft cleat on the boat, if I'm at an anchorage.  Since the line now runs free (not through the cam cleat), I can adjust the line by hand with its either 4 or 6:1 purchase, and tie it off to either the dock or boat cleat, and work the engine into place.  Also works for hauling the engine up.  This is for the earlier Garhauer lifts.  I understand that they've made some modification to the standalone lift a few years ago, may even have put a cleat or moved the cam cleat down to on the lift mast somewhere lower.  It still works for me in the original configuration.