Mk 1 stern rail dimensions

[Mike and Joanne Stimmler]

Since I live in Phoenix and my boat is in San Diego I'm hoping someone is close by their boat and can tell me the distance from the top rail to the center rail on the stern rail. I'm trying to build an outboard motor bracket. I'm considering using common 2 x 10 or 2 x12 lumber and some U bolts to mount it on the rail. Any thoughts or ideas.

Thanks,
Mike

[Ken Juul]

I can get the demensions for you this weekend. 

Rather than using U-bolts. you might consider using 1" thick wood.  2 pieces of the correct length, bolt them together, counter sinking the nuts/bolt heads.  Use a 1" speedbore drill to make channels for the stern rail tubes.  Much cleaner looking installation and not that much more work to make.  If you can find "unfinished" lumber the thickness is much closer to 1" which will give a bit more thickness to the "sandwich".

[Mike and Joanne Stimmler]

Are you saying to bolt the two pieces together then drill lengthwise along the seam of the sandwich to make the channels for the rail tubes then take them apart to mount on the rails?

[Terry Forshier]

12" center of top rail to center of center rail.  1988 Std Rig, #570 BAKALUKA...
Terry in Naples

[Ron Hill]

Mike : If you look in the Defender catalog (pg 27) you can buy a "Kicker Pad" for an outboard that will fit around the the "T" on the starboard rear rail of the stern pulpit for $23.99.  I've had one for 17 years and presently have a 5 hp Nissan on it.  It's made out of molded ABS plastic - NO maintenance!!

If you want to spend more $$ they have others as well as Teak ones so you'll have something else to finish - if that's what you desire!!   

[Ken Juul]

Mike,

Yes,

I too have the plastic mount that Ron mentioned.  Works very well, however it must be mounted so that a vertical post runs through it.  The board sandwich idea allows some flexibility in placement, however it without hollowing out another groove, it can't go over a vertical support.

[Jim Price]

I made my mount out of "starboard".  It consists of two panels (one for each side) that have starboard strips epoxied above and below each rail and split at the "T".  The strips are glued to only one board and the panels and strips have SS bolts through them.  Easy to put on, and the sandwich makes a sturdy mount.  The white starboard needs no maintaince other than normal washing.

It was easy to mount the strips first and and then using a dremel tool, trim the strip surface until I got a good tight fit between the two panels effectively clamping the rail in between.

[Mike and Joanne Stimmler]

Thanks Everyone for your input.
I think I'll try the Kicker pad from Defender. I saw it in the catalogue but thought it was the same one WM has and it wouldn't work since it was a straight 90 degrees(already tried it)and I'm sure it will look cleaner than my idea of a 2 X 12 with U-bolts

Mike

[Ron Hill]

Mike : If that mount is a little narrow in width for your motor clamps, attach a piece of Starboard (with 2 screws) of the correct width on the inside.  That's what I did when I went from a 3.3hp Merc to the 5hp Nissan.  Still works great.   

[Mike and Joanne Stimmler]

Thanks Ron for the advice on the kicker pad from Defender. I mounted one on my starboard sternrail and it worked out just fine. I did have to make a slight modification on the inside piece with a Dremel tool to allow for the curve of the rail. I also used a Master Lock that slides over the mounting screws of the motor and it had to go on sort of backwards since it would not slide on from left to right as designed. We slid it on upside down from right to left and put a piece of tape over the lock key hole to protect it from the weather. I have ordered a lift from garhauer but have not received it yet. Is anyone using the sling from Davis . I had more trouble trying to fi
gure out how to put that crazy thing on the motor than all the rest combined

Thanks to all
Mike

[Stu Jackson]

Mike, if you follow the directions (OK, OK, just a "guy" speaking!) the Davis mount fits well, just make the adjustments on the straps so that the clicker works, and it can be a little loose - if you try to make it very tight, which is the intuitive way to do it, you'll have difficulties.  One of things we did was to replace the Garhauer - provided hook at the end of the tackle (I think it might have been a carabiner) with a larger stainless steel snap hook which then more easily fits over the pretty thick Davis handle on the top of the motor.  It makes it much easier to get the lift tackle on and off the Davis motor handle.  That's another reason not to make the motor handle too tight, or else you can't get the hook under the handle.

As far as the Garhauer mount goes, you may notice that the picture in the Garhauer catalog of the lift is shown on a C30, and shows the base being on the flat part of the deck, aft of the raised coaming.  That didn't work for us, we put ours on the very aft end of the higher section of the coaming.  Just make sure before you install the base and the ring on the pushpit that the top of the crane of the lift gives you a fairlead to the motor, and that the block and tackle on the lift, when fully tightened, still has some clearance above the motor.  Putting the base on the raised coaming gives you just that clearance you will need.

[Mike and Joanne Stimmler]

Thanks, Stu
We are going back this weekend so I'll try your suggestions

[Ron Hill]

Mike : I made my own harness.  Easy to do with about 5/6 ft of nylon strap, a black nylon/plastic buckle and a 2 inch stainless ring.
Sew in the buckle with an "X" stitch.  Then do the same with a 3 inch overlapping piece (2 more sewn "X"s) of strap so the ring is captive, about 3 or 4" away from the buckle.   
Then take the the strap (starting on the motor top) and wrap it around the motor in an X.  If the aft strap tends to slip forward, you need another piece of strap to go around the aft strap to hold it in position. 

Total cost is under $10 and under $5 if you already have a stainless ring!!   

I added a (approx) 3 " disk of starboard to the coming at the starboard stern and secured it to the boat.  Grooved out the forward underside to make a better fit.  Then I mounted the Garhauer Lift "ball& plate" to the piece of starboard. 
A thought   

[Mike and Joanne Stimmler]

Thanks Ron!