Cordless Cable Cutter

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britinusa

Paul & Peggy
1987 C34 Tall Rig Fin Keel - Hull # 463

See you out on the water

Engine:M25XP

scgunner

    Paul,

      Just my two cents, when dealing with any emergency my mantra is "keep it simple". I assume you're preparing for a dis-masting event in which you'd need to cut the standing rigging to keep the loose mast from sinking your boat. While it's good to be prepared for that event I don't think I'd want to rely on a power tool as my primary tool to solve that problem. A number of questions arise for me; after most likely sitting for years will it be fully charged and ready to go for an emergency that most likely won't happen, how is it going to perform when wet, and how difficult is it going to be to put that blade on(and get a clean cut)loose cables that are probably flopping around.
      As for me I have a large pair of cable cutters stored in a handy location, they require almost no maintenance and are much safer to use in a bad situation. I was able to do some practice cutting with them on my old standing rigging after it was replaced, they're pretty slick.
Kevin Quistberg                                                 Top Gun 1987 Mk 1 Hull #273

Noah

#2
Ditto for me on manual cable/bolt cutters. They also work well for cutting away the three matched-key padlocks (compaionway and cockpit lockers, when your wife loses your car keys/boat keys ring!   :cry4` But cheap is a relative term, especially when you factor in the cost off a new $300 car key fob at the Toyota dealership!!! Happy Thanksgiving to all.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Stu Jackson

Ditto me, too.  Instead of those hugely expensive marine cutters, I got one for $11 at Ace Hardware.  Strong enough to cut locks and 1/4" anchor chain!  No batteries required.  Much more stable, too.

Wifey locked the boat keys inside when we were in Half Moon Bay a few years ago.  The saloon hatch was open.  Before I could think much about it, I opened it up and slithered down inside and handed the keys up.  :D  If I had thought about it at all, I woulda chickened out.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Fred Koehlmann

Agreed. Don't rely on a power tool like that in an emergency. In the sort of demasting weather, the waves will likely drown the tool, or the rolling/rocking action of the boat could cause you to grind yourself!

We keep long handled bolt cutter and a sharp hatchet on board, in on outside/cockpit locker.
Frederick Koehlmann: Dolphina - C425 #3, Midland, ON
PO: C34 #1602, M35BC engine

Noah

#5
Paul, If after the disaster, while drifting around, and you want to McGyver together a new rig—that power grinder/cutter tool might prove handy. :D
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Jim Hardesty

QuoteDon't rely on a power tool like that in an emergency. In the sort of demasting weather, the waves will likely drown the tool, or the rolling/rocking action of the boat could cause you to grind yourself!

I agree.  Still a nice tool.  I have Ryobi tools aboard that share batteries.  A drill, a spotlight, a high/low pressure inflator.  All get used often.  No angle grinder, yet.

Jim
Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA

Bill Shreeves

Concern for lost or forgotten keys is the reason I use a combination lock on the companionway...  No cable cutters onboard yet however, not a bad idea.
The only thing that always works on an old boat is the owner...

Bill Shreeves
s/v "Begnnings" 1987 Shoal Draft #333
M25XPB, Worton Creek, MD

Noah

Bill- I had/have a combo lock on companionway, but three keyed alike locks on my cockpit hatches and outboard motor mount. Key locks are easier for me than laying down in the cockpit to see/work a small combo lock. My system works well, as long as you don't lose the keys and throwaway all of those "extra" duplicate keys  that  "were just cluttering up chart table..."
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Brad Young

Had friends get demasted. Their bolt cutters would not cut the cable. They had to remove the clevis pins. Be careful about cheap ones. Maybe do a test to see  can cut stainless steel cable.
Brad Young
Boat
Year 1986
Model C34
Hull# 84

scgunner

    With any emergency equipment it's always a good idea to have some kind of practice drill which simulates in emergency in which it will be used. With your mast in the water it's not a good time to find out your cutting device doesn't work.
Kevin Quistberg                                                 Top Gun 1987 Mk 1 Hull #273

waterdog

#11
Not sure I agree with most here.   Just did a safety at sea course this weekend.    One of the segments was focussed entirely on cutting away rigging after a dismasting.

1.) find jobs for the crew not involved and get them off the deck (it's not going to be stable or safe up there)
2.) hammer and punch - pull the cotter pins and drive out the clevis pins on the slack shrouds and stays
3.) stop and think - the loaded wires are going somewhere.   Where?   be safe.  If you are an easy motor to the club, cut it loose.   If your in the middle of an ocean develop a plan to save what you can.
4.) cordless grinder with a stainless zip disc is your quickest, cleanest solution - I keep one in my "Oh ####" bag
5.) also good cable cutter for stranded rig / bolt cutters for rod rigging.   If you have in your mind that you are going to cut stranded shrouds with a cheap bolt cutter, try it first!
6) have a hacksaw and a half dozen bimetal blades - your most reliable backup. 

We spent an hour and tried all the methods on all types of rigging.   There is no place on my boat for bolt cutters now (I have a weight sensitive cat nowadays).  A large set of geared cable cutters would be good (but too heavy and expensive for my liking).  Small cable cutters or bolt cutters are not useful (for me).   The zip disc I used on at half dozen other metal cutting jobs on our cruise to Alaska this summer.  Very useful beyond cutting rig away.   Get the same brand as your cordless drill so you have two or more batteries. 
Steve Dolling
Former 1988 #804, BlackDragon - Vancouver BC
Now 1999 Manta 40 cat

KWKloeber

How often does a NiCad or Li Ion angle grinder battery need to be topped off?

Dang -- Out of sight, out of mind?

ken
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

waterdog

Quote from: KWKloeber on November 30, 2017, 11:07:31 AM
How often does a NiCad or Li Ion angle grinder battery need to be topped off?

Dang -- Out of sight, out of mind?

ken

With NiCad you can watch your grinder literally grind to a slow halt as you're halfway through the job.    With Li you'll speed to the halfway point and abruptly stop!   Does anybody make NiCad anymore?   It's not good for an application like this.   Li will hold a charge in storage much longer.   I actually rotate batteries regularly through charge cycles and use them for drill, grinder, vacuum, light, jigsaw, and OK I'll confess I've been doing some projects and also have a circular saw and reciprocating saw on board using the same batteries...  And I use the cheap Ryobi ones because they hurt less when you drop them overboard.
Steve Dolling
Former 1988 #804, BlackDragon - Vancouver BC
Now 1999 Manta 40 cat