Removing a Nicro-Fico traveler track and installing Garhauer

[harvey]

I have a 1986 34' Catalina with the original Nicro-Fico track and traveler.  Has anyone changed out the track and how did you do it? I'm currently looking into the Garhauer traveler system.  Has anyone upgraded?

[dave davis]

Several years ago when the New Garhauer traveler was introduced, the original Nicro-Fico was replaced and was a big improvement. If I remember correctly, the Nicro track had to be replace and the track had mounting thru bolts in different places.
Most everyone now has the 5/1 or the 6/1 ball bearing improvement.
Now hear this, the new-new traveler is available from Garhauer which is a real beauty. Bill will be showing it off at the Boat Show in SF/Oakland. In the meantime you can check out in the current issue of Practical Sailor. I have not yet seen the new one but the photo sure looks hi-tec.
Good Luck, Dave

[dave davis]

The New Traveler and a complete write-up,
http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/current/features/5256-1.html

[SteveLyle]

I've done it, and wrote it up in some detail in the November 2005 Mainsheet (C34 Tech Notes), complete with pictures. 

Some of the keys:
- Talk to Guido @ Garhauer, he knows all about this upgrade.
- Take careful measurements of your mounting hole locations - Garhauer will pre-drill the holes in the traveler to match.
- Tell Guido to remove the outer shackles on the car, since you only need the middle one.
- You'll likely need new fasteners, since the new traveler is 'thicker' by 1/2" or so.  Most of the fasteners you can get at your local chandlery, but likely not the thru-bolts (they're 1/4" machine screws, 9" long) - go to Catalina for those.

It's pretty much a "take the old one off, put the new one on" kind of thing, other than that, and well worth it to have a taveler that's actually usable.

Steve

[Phil Spicer]

Harvey,
I saw the new Garhauer traveler at the Annapolis show in Oct. 2004. Ordered the complete upgrade pack on the spot. The kit has the traveler, blocks, and genoa blocks included.  I added two fiddle blocks, one with cam cleat and made a double ended mainsheet to go along with our new traveler. 
I fabricated plates to hold cam cleats at each end of the traveler. 
I also made backup plates for inside the cabin for the traveler bolts.  These bolts must be longer than the old bolts.  Garhauer can make up these bolts, just call them and tell them how long you need them to be. I went to 5/16  diameter because the holes were larger in the new traveler. If you give Garhauer your measurement, or send them the old traveler they will drill the holes to match. I Will try to attach a picture.

[Phil Spicer]

Here are 2 more pictures of the cam cleat plates and back-up plates. I plan to change the back-ups to 4 holes and use a thinner plate. (Traveler came with 4 holes) I may also move the cam cleat to the back of the cabin top as many others have done. That will mean two more blocks, one to turn the line down, then a block to lead aft.
My traveler has the dodger kit which means the lines are on each side to come through the dodger zippers. If I would do it again I would get the traveler made up like the one I saw at the show with both lines one one side. That would make adjustments so easy.  Come to think about it, I think I can rig it that way myself. This project started because my wife had a hard time moving the old traveler. She likes the new one, more purchase.

[Phil Spicer]

Back-up plates

[Stu Jackson]

Phil, great pictures, thanks.

For those of you with dodgers, it goes without saying that you'll need to run the traveler control lines back to the cabin top inside the dodger.  Some people put slits in the dodger to use the cam cleats as shown in Phil's pictures as they are, right on the traveler.  Others have run the lines back by NOT installing the cam cleats on the traveler, but rather installing bullseye fair leads about halfway back from the traveler to the aft end of the cabin top, and then installing cam cleats at the aft end of the cabin top.  This allows a single hole to be placed in the dodger window, instead of a slit.  It also has the advantage, dodger or not, to control the traveler lines without having to lean forward. You can work with Garhauer, as we did, to delete the installation of the cam cleats on the track and install your own inside the dodger.  It appears from Phil's picture that the cam cleat would be replaced by a sheave to provide a fairlead aft.  Guido and Bill are a delight to work with.

[Stu Jackson]

Here's a picture of the traveler lines led aft (with the dodger off).  Left click on the picture to make it larger.   There is the roller on the aft end of the track that was installed by Garhauer right on the track end fittings, and then the line (red tracer) leads to a bullseye fair lead about halfway aft, then to the cam cleat.  The purpose of this picture is to show the traveler line led to the fairlead to avoid a slit in the dodger window.  With this fairlead, you can simply have a single hole or grommet in the dodger window.  This cam cleat was later relocated to the aft end of the cabintop edge, instead of being a bit forward of the edge.  Dave Sanner had earlier posted a picture of his cam cleats -- they were the swivels, which make for a much easier purchase during use.  See: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2417.0

[Paul Blumenfeld]

Harvey,

I did this last summer and installation was quite easy.  Guido at Garhauer was great.  He new that the  mounting holes on my boat were 1/4" off on the port vs. starboard side. Only problem was getting the original mounting bolts out and I ended up using an impact driver.  One of the few upgrades I have done that the wife would have paid extra for. You will love it!

[Joe and Carol]

Removed the old Nicro-Fico traveler track from my 1987 today.  Job accomplished with a screwdriver!  Will send the track to Garhauer for exact hole placement in new track.  I did the conversion on our old Catalina 30 and can't wait to get it done on our 34.  Bill at Garhauer booth in Chicago Sail Show promised me a quick turn around.  This conversion is a must for the older Catalina 34's.  Go for it!

[Rick Johnson]

How high up on the list of upgrade should the traveler replacement be?  I have a little extra cash and was considering replacing all the mainsheet blocks, but perhaps I should replace the traveler instead?  I've already replaced all the running rigging and added the Garhauer rigid boom vang.  This is one I had not considered but everyone who has done it seems very happy!

By the way, did I mention that the Truecharge 40 is a great upgrade with the golf cart batteries..... 

[Ron Hill]

Rick : That's a hard question to answer, not knowing what you all have on your C34. 
I only replaced the 3 blocks that attach to the boom and found that to be satisfactory for the time being.  If you don't have them, I'd look at the Garhauer movable genoa car system.  You also might save some more money and change out the standing rigging - yours is 17 years old and becoming OVERDUE!!
A few thoughts.   

[Tom Glennon]

I canme upon a guy on the cat 36 site that was selling brand new traveller cars up grade kit from garhauer which he had intended to install on his 36 but then bought a new boat.  I just slid the new cars on the existing track, and they worked great. No need to replace the track if it isn't broken.
What a difference! I have an '87 Catalina.

[Jim Price]

Rick, I have a 1991 #1119 and I only replaced the traveller cars on existing track couple of years ago.  I have same cars as new boats have and it was significant improvement over original equipment.  Hardest part of installation is removing the end plates (usually stuck after so many years) and drilling new holes in track for rubber "bumpers".  Really a simple task as new cars come on short peice of track and you simply liine up the track ends and move the new car on one end and then line up track peice at other side and move the old car off.  DON'T TAKE NEW CAR OFF SHORT TRACK - that is what keeps all the bearings in place!!!