Adding raw water "T" to intake side

[Jeff_McKinney]

I'll bet this has been asked & answered before, but I can't find any threads on the topic that help resolve this question.

I'd like to add either a " Winterizing T" fitting with a shutoff valve OR install a bypass valve to my raw water intake hose (between the through-hull valve and the strainer). This would make adding antifreeze, flushing, or blowing out the through-hull as needed easier. Folks have mentioned using a bronze T with all the various tailpieces, clamps, & related fittings. Durable, but lots of bucks & assembly time. A couple of folks have said the marelon diverter valves (Forespar) would be OK for this application, then put a ball valve cutoff running from the side port for safety. (ye olde belt & suspenders approach)

I know the intake hose has a 1" ID so will be careful about the valve size so as to keep the water flow to the engine adequate.

Thanks.

Jeff McKinney
Event Horizon
#1734

[Phil Spicer]

Jeff:
My "T" is above the strainer. ..............T-shutoff valve-2 or 3ft of hose-threaded nipple & a  cap.
Shut off the intake, unscrew the cap, put hose in premix of antifreeze, open valve to suck up antifreeze, hit the starter, watch for the pink to exit. I catch it in a bucket. Use the enviro friendly stuff.

[Ron Hill]

Jeff : Yes, there have been a number of discussions on that topic.
As Phil said, it's easier to do above the strainer.  Had a friend that used a garden hose "Y" for that purpose.   

[Jeff_McKinney]

Phil & Ron,

Thanks for the quick replies. Point of clarification: by "above the strainer" you mean between the strainer & the engine, correct?

Two more "newbie" question: 1. About how many gallons of the enviro-friendly antifreeze should I plan on using to get it all the way through the raw water cooling circuit?
2. How (or do) you back-flush the antifreeze into the strainer and intake line?

Thanks

[Phil Spicer]

Jeff,
  I am in lake Erie, so I am on the hard. I just open the thru hull valve a little and the antifreeze will head for the strainer. If you are in the water, shut off your thru hull, unscrew the strainer a little and the water will run out as the antifreeze runs in. You will get a little in the boat ,but not much. I use 2 to 3 gal. That may be overkill, but better than not enough. .It's an easy job......a lot faster than changing oil or trans fluid. Give it a try....Good luck

[Ron Hill]

Jeff : I use 1 gallon, but it's the -60 or -100.  Then I remove the zinc from the heat exchanger and let all of the anti freeze drain out of the exchanger.  Then remove the strainer from the raw water inlet.  ALL thru hulls should be left in the open position( on the hard), then no back flush is necessary. 

[Ted Pounds]

I use 2 gallons, but it's probaly overkill.  I also drain the heat exchanger and the muffler (I'm often a belt and suspenders kinda guy  ).  Also you should remove the impeller.  I read (I think it was on the C36 board) that the non-toxic anti-freeze attacks the rubber in the impeller.  I also stopped using the non-toxic stuff to winterize the head for the same reason.

[Jeff_McKinney]

Ron,

Aren't you in Virginia? -60 or -100 antifreeze seems way excessive, but if it works for you, who am I to criticize?  If my memory serves me I can't recall it ever getting that cold down there. I live in Frederick, MD and it doesn't get that cold up here.

When you refer to opening the through-hulls, is this just to fill the lines with antifreeze and then you close them off? My boat will be in the water this year so leaving them open is not really an option.

Ted: I saw the discussion about the impeller and was going to pull it so it doesn't get mooshed all winter long.

Sooooo much to learn.

[Ted Pounds]

If you're in the water you definitely want all your thru-hulls CLOSED.  That said, then you want to make sure any water trapped above the thru-hull has anti-freeeze in it.  If the boat's on the hard then y ou want all the thru-hulls open which lets water drain out to prevent freeze damage.

[Jim Price]

I am little slow to respond but I have the "t" joint at the sea cock below the raw water strainer with simple garden hose attachment.  This allows starting of engine with sea cock open and then going below to close sea cock with hose in solution.  Sucks it through the entire system very quickly and you have solution in all lines and the strainer this way.  I put the anti-freeze in large bucket, think I used two gallons, maybe three. 

I have not actually done this is last three winters as boat stays in water and water temp rarely gets that low.  We also use boat through out winter season and I use boat heating system to keep interior warmer and no problems so far.  I would rethink if we start  to have deeper cold temps where water temp drops very low.   

[Ron Hill]

Jeff : By the time the antifreeze dilutes with water (that's already in the system), it makes me feel comfortable when I use the -60 degree. 
As far as how safe it is on "rubber"?  The label says it's safe to use in engines.  Engines have "rubber" hoses and gaskets.  I've used it for years with no detrimental effects.