Exhaust Riser & Harness

[dave davis]

This is a copy of a Email that was written by Ron Hill. This is also a test to see if this will work.
 
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 19:06:26 -0400
         
 


Jeff :  I'm traveling and don't have my files with me on this laptop,
but
think I wrote about changing the riser in the Mainsheet (titled-Dollar
Bill
Test). Why are you removing the riser?  Most of the problems are where
the
raw water enters the riser - that weld fails and you can see the
crack/leak.
The other failure is where the riser is screwed into the flange.  If
it's
just for preventive maintenance, I wouldn't touch the flange if it
isn't
leaking and just have an extra bead welded around where the raw water
nipple
enters the large exhaust riser  s.s.  pipe. In fact have that nipple
welded
on the outside as well as the INSIDE.  That will really strengthen the
"weakest link".  Use some liquid wrench on the three flange nuts
(9/16"?)and
let it set overnight.  They should come right off.  Make sure that you
use
some "anti seize" on the threads when you replace them.  I talked to
Gerry
Douglas and told him that I suspect that that nipple weld fails because
they
used stiff wire reinforced hose.  The hose angles are not acute so
nylon
reinforced hose(which is much more flexible) could be used.  Nylon/cord
reinforced hose would take up some of the vibration (like the hump
hose)
rather than transmitting it all to that nipple. If your old hose from
the
anti-siphon to the nipple is OK use it as it's become flexible "over
time".
If you don't have a "hump hose" now is the time to install one.  Also
inspect the inlet to the muffler and maybe add a little glass to beefup
the
inlet tube.  After you have the riser welded take it to a radiator shop
and
have it pressure checked for leaks - if it will hold 5 psi for 1 minute
or
less - it's OK. That will let you know that the other welds under the
insulation are also solid.

On the wiring harness upgrade you might look at changing to the new
instrument panel and hard wiring the harness to the panel rather than
using
the "Euro Connector".  You really only need the connector at the engine
to
make it easier if you have to remove the engine - for whatever the
reason.
Some people have hard wired both ends.  Make sure that you leave about
1/4
inch of wire on either side of the old connector so you can check the
wire
colors.  Don't be surprised if the colors of the wires don't match -
because
they won't!!  If your wire is short, go under the aft cabin and cut
some of
the wire ties to gain some more length - then retie the wires back up.  
Make
sure that you tin the ends of the wire going into the Euro Connector.  
Do
only do one wire at a time - cut both sides, tin both sides and then
connect
both sides before moving to the next wire.  As I recall there are 3
wires
that aren't connected thru the old "trailer connector" - the electric
fuel
pump, the fuel gage and one other (sense wire for the alternator??).  
Some
of the electrical "Gurus" have told me that it's best to file off the
points
of the connector screws, as a flat head gains the best connection.

To clean the inside of the heat exchanger use the household cleaner  
"Lime".
Your boat is of the age you might as well get the "Semdure" end
cap/gasket
kit.  Look for that kit # in the "Tips" that I wrote in the Mainsheet.

Think that I've given you enough to munch on for awhile.  Hope that you
don't mind sharing some of the dialog we've been having with the two
Daves.

Too bad I can't put this on the C34 Net, but when traveling there isn't
any
place that will let you go on line for that long while composing!!  
This
info might save some others some work when they're trying to do the
same
thing.  So be it, as we've only got this "Great" Message Board, which
only
helps the people reading/looking  rather than the people writing the
answers
and contributing!!!  Maybe that's why they don't contribute - it's just
too
tough and it's easier to be spoon fed; even though they've done the
same fix
and found  a slightly different twist!  You can't believe how much I've
added/edited  as I reread this reply, and THANK the Lord for spell
check.

Let me know if you have any other questions.   Ron  APACHE  #788

[Admin]

Ron -

You really don't have to be online to write a post.  Just write it in Word offline, then when you want to post the message just copy from the Word document. Dave Davis did this for you, but as you can see, when you copy from an email rather than Word, the hard returns get copied too and it doesn't look very pretty.  

Try composing in Word (or WordPerfect) and then copying.  It just takes an extra few seconds and the rest of can then partake of your wisdom (this also is a neat way to make sure you've spelled everything correctly).

Dave Smith
webmaster@c34.org
Bear Territory #1421