Engine cut-off

[sail4dale]

on a cruise the engine started to run poorly and stall.  Investigation found the culprit was the steering quadrant flange catching the cut-off cable and partially cutting off the fuel supply.

I was a fault for stuffing the lazerette with gear but has this been a common occurrence ?

Anyone with rerouting advise?

[Ron Hill]

Dale : Have never heard of that before.  Sounds like the routing of the cable was the problem and/or there was a missing tie to hold it back.

Strange things will happen.  Once the port cockpit cushion had slipped back.  It turned the key in the switch just enough to shut off the power to the entire engine instrument panel.  The key "looked" like it was on.  At the time I was scared to turn off the engine for fear that I couldn't get it restarted.  Took awhile to figure that one out!

[Steve Hansen]

I had the steering cables jump off the pulleys while in reverse preparing to dock. In addition to losing our steering, this somehow compromised our ability to throttle down or shift into neutral i.e. felt like levers were bound in place. Before panic completely set in and with a full head of steam heading towards our neighbors boat, pilings, docks etc. I remembered the fuel cut off and thankfully it worked. Luckily between the direction of the wind and the 10 degrees rudder I managed to achieve by spinning the wheel hard over, we drifted coolly into our dock. With catastrophe averted and slightly shaky legs I now believe in a Guardian Angel and the diligent need to keep the steering system serviced. This was our first month ever owning a boat. YEE HA

Steve

[Ron Hill]

Steve : Your situation highlights why I wrote in the "Mainsheet" that you need to check/take up the slack in your steering cables.

It should only need to be done one or two times.  If you read the Edson tech notes - they say to "turn both nuts at the same time".  I
f you need to adjust the slack more than twice you may have some other problems!!

[Mike Vaccaro]

Steve,

Since your boat is new to you and almost 20 years old, it's worth checking the entire steering system.  Our 87 was fitted with zinc coated cable clamps at the factory, and when we bought here there wasn't much left!  At a minimum in addition to tightening the cables, the system merits inspection if you haven't already done so.

Edson publishes a handy guide on servicing the pedestal, which you can down-load from there web-site.  That's the place to start researching the system.

Some known weak points:  The cable clamps at the eye-bolts on the steering quadrant, and the bronze bearings in the turning sheaves below deck (these are under the fiberglass fairing in the aft bunk area).  Edson also used stainless screws to secure the compass mounting and the top of the pedestal assembly--which is cast aluminum; so there's a high likely hood of dissimilar metal corrosion which makes removing these screws difficult.  

If you're considering overhauling the system, you might also want to think about upgrading the "rubber duck" gear shift handles if your boat still has them as well as replacing the throttle and shift cables which have a tendency to become dirty and corrode over time.  

A search of this message board for "steering;" "steering cable," "engine controls," or "throttle shift cable" is a good place to start along with the Edson website.

Steering is a system typically taken for granted, but is critical enough that regular inspection and preventative maintenance is required.

Good Luck!

Mike

[Steve Hansen]

Thanks for the above advise, and have found the Edson website. I have ordered the replacement steering cable already and am planning other upgrades to the steering this fall.  Replacing the shifting and throttle cables also sounds like a good idea.

Steve

[Mike Vaccaro]

Steve,

One other "head's up:" removing the screws that hold your compass in place.  Our Ritchie is mounted to the binnacle via a plastic mount.  The stainless screws that hold it in place have a tendency to be difficult to remove due to dissimilar corrosion.

There's a lengthy discussion thread about this topic that's in this forum.  I'm not adapt enough to pull it up and put a link in, but it's worth a search.  

Two things to note:  Edson has produced a non-magnetic screw with a special coating that this less prone to corrosion, removing these screw(s) could be the most difficult part of the job! And if it becomes necessary to cut the plastic mount, Ritchie still produces these parts and will send one in short order (as I recall the price was about 50 dollars).  As with any steel/aluminum fastening, when you re-install the screws, a coating of lanicote, T-9, dielectric silicone, etc. will go a long way to avoiding future problems.  

Cheers,

Mike

[Ron Hill]

Guys : While we're talking about Edson steering let me remind you of the note that I put in the Mainsheet a few years back:
The C34s 1986 thru 1988 have bronze pins in their Edison idler pulleys.  The bronze tends to wear.  In 1989 Edson changed to stainless pins!!

You might want to do some checking on those pins and to also make sure that the pulley is actually rotating when you turn the wheel!!  
At the same time you can check to see how much slack you have in your steering system.
A Thought.