Refrigerator Insulation

[Buzz]

We are preparing our 1988 Catalina 34 "Encore" for a cruise to the Pacific side of Mexico and Central America.  I am concerned about the amount and condition of the insulation in the icebox.  At some point an Adler Barbour Cold Machine model #DCM-12 (serial 16731) was added.  We don't know the year of installation but it is R-12, which means it is far from new.   It has run continuously for the last five years.

Is there a way of testing the insulation?  I know moisture turns insulation to mush and have considered drilling a hole from the outside to inspect it.
This would pierce any moisture or vapor barrier that there might be.
How would I repair the hole?

Depending on the verdict, one of two questions will be next.  How to add insulation on the outside of the box, or how to rebuild the box?
If rebuilding is chosen would the counter top have to come off?  I am handy with tools and will do the work myself.

[Stu Jackson]

Buzz

There's been a ton of material written on box insulation.  I recommend doing a "Search" on insulation on this message board.  In addition, go to the website home page and click on FAQ on the left hand side, there's some material there.  Projects, I don't think, has much, but you could get to Al Watson's homepage through Projects and see what he did when he took out and replaced his galley counter on hull #55, your (and my) vintage.

You're right about the moisture, but please note that there is little if any insulation in the wall of the box itself.  It's just fiberglass, which is why it needs to be insulated.

It's easier to insulate th outside of the box, but getting behind is a bear.  Lots of different insulation material choices, and some of the newer space-age materials might be better, although more costly - but they wouldn't raise the moisture issue.

As far as holes go, how did the PO run the refrigerant wires to the evaporator in the box?  They had to go through and get sealed.  That's how, if it was done right.  I don't recommend punching any more holes in the box.  Also, plug the drain hole.   Most everyone has added insulation to the outside.

I have a 1986 Adler Barbour and it's still working, although I don't run it unless I'm on board.  I had to replace the fan a few years ago, got it through A-B WAECO in Mass.  Very helpful, sent the fan to a local fridge specialist who delivered it to me in a few days and we had a nice chat and cup of coffee about A-B systems.  His recommendation:  do NOT try to replace only parts of the system, if you need a new one get the package.  This was technical, not marketing, advice.  I recommend that you check the operation of the fan, and make sure that the wiring into the control module is clean - usually it gets pretty corroded just sitting (wherever you have your compressor).

Have a great trip.  Keep in touch, do good work...

[Ron Hill]

Buzz : As Stu said there's a bunch of advice from people that have already tackled your insulation problem.  You need to read them all before doing anything - and then decide.

On my 1988 I added 3 1/2" foil faced fiberglass to the port and under side.  Then I topped that with the sliver bubble wrap.  On the forward side I remover the settee cushion and glued on a piece of 1/2" foil faced Styrofoam.  On the starboard side, I drilled holes and squirted liquid foam in the void between the box and the hull.  Be VERY careful if you use the foam the expands 50% - you might consider the foam that doesn't expand.  On the oven (aft) side there's not much you can do - I added a piece of 1/4" building foil faced to that area.

To get better access to the under side of the box, remove the 2 drawers and door unit.  If you really want to get at that area - remove the counter top (tooo tough for me) as Capt Al did.  
Don't forget to get a thermal pad for the counter top.  You can also add sheet insulation to the inside of the box, but you'll decrease it's capacity.
Alot of options!!  

[Paul Bosquet]

Although expensive, this is about the best insulation available R30 for 1" thick insulation. Other thickness also available.
To be installed inside box covered with plastic liner for a nice clean cleanable finish.

HEAT SHIELD MARINE Insulation Liners

http://www.e-zkold.com/accessories.htm

http://www.heatshieldmarine.com/price.htm

http://www.boats.com/boat-articles/Galley+Gear-120/Thinking+Inside+the+Box/2847.html

Paul

[Jim Price]

I don't know what product was used but the original owner had the outside of the box insulated when the original reefer was installed many years ago.  The marine installer used an expanding foam product that completely filled all the voids around the box.  I know it is tight because when I had to replace the reefer couple of years ago, the wiring and freon lines were embedded in this material.  I have a new age Isotherm (water cooled) that runs 24 X 7 and it will freeze items in the bottom.  You may want to check with some installers to ID the foam product and its R ratings.  Would potentially be easier to install.

[Stu Jackson]

Duh...

I forgot to mention that it could be done both inside and outside.

Sorry