Installing a windlass project

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

sailingdolphin

I remember some time back Ron and others talking about the best way to install a windlass.

Here is a picture of one I think is an excellent setup .  

http://www.carolinawind.com/images/catalina/cat34anchor.jpg

The big question is how can it be done? I would like to make this a project. Looking for input.

It looks like there would definitely be some fiber glass work.
Doug and Donna #171

Stu Jackson

Doug

As you probably know the picture is of a Mark II, or darn close to it.  Yes, fiberglass work would definitely be required.  I believe there is a windlass installation in Projects.

The rest of it is not all that hard with proper planning.  Fiberglass, electrical, wiring, decision on batteries, you name it.

You ask how it can be done:  Hard work, planning and a lot of sweat  (& tears?).

You could also consider buying a Mark II boat.   :oops:

You could also consider a simpler Mark I installation.  Check Projects.

Your boat, your choice.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Jim Price

LADY DI is a Mark I (1991) and that is exactly the same set up I have.  I would think this could be a major project if the deck and anchor well was not already designed to house this type of installation.  Matter of fact, I understand it takes and act of Congress to un-install one of these things to do any major overhaul to the unit!!   :shock:
Jim Price
"LADY DI", 1119
1991
Lake Lanier, GA

Ron Hill

Doug : The picture of the windlass installation that you want is for a 1989 anchor well C34 or later.

You can do it, but it's going to be a BUNCH of work!!!!  
With your anchor well, the best I'd recommend is to secure one door, beef it up underneath and install a low profile windless in that door.  
You can also install one aft of the well thru the deck, but the motor will extend into the overheard of the V berth.

Now you know why I'm still pulling 35ft of chain and a 33# Bruce.  Good luck.   :wink:
Ron, Apache #788

Mark Elkin

Stu is correct, there is a windlass project thanks to Mike Smith, added in 2002.

And I'm getting very close to completing my windlass project for Yorkshire Rose.  While the project page is still a little bit away, you can see some of the preliminary images.  


The expoxy base is almost ready.  The holes are cut.  The exposed core is sealed.  Just needs paint.


The windlass capstan sits behind the anchor well.



The capstan drive shaft extends down into the v-berth.



The windlass motor attached.



I'm designing a cabinet face for the shelf that will hide the windlass motor.  What you see here is the cardboard template I just made.



Yorkshire Rose is a 1988 Mark I with split anchor well doors.  I carry two anchors and both rodes in the anchor well.  I could not afford the space within the well for the windlass too.  That was the primary reason for choosing to put the windlass aft of the well.  Secondary reason is that I'm not that good -- yet -- with major fiberglass projects.  I don't have the confidence yet to make a weather sealed box inside the anchor well for the windlass motor.


I'll have lots and lots of details about my installation experiences when the complete project page is ready.
Mark S Elkin

ledan18

I bought 1 windlass (V2, Rewmar).
But I don't know the use of the yellow wire (enlose
picture), so I can't install it.
Please answer and show me that.
Can you give me an Owner's Manual.
Thank you very much.


Randy Stolze


    Doug,

           I like you have a Mark I boat and have looked at various installation methods of an anchor windlass. The thought of cutting a hole in my deck gives me the willies!

   Recently I ordered the Tech Notes CD from our brother C36 website and saw an installation within the existing anchor locker. They mounted the windlass on a 3/8" thick SS platform that spans the center of the locker and positions the windlass such that the factory anchor roller is used. The double doors have to be radius cut and flanged. I like the idea of keeping everything in the locker.

           Good luck with your project. Let us know what you decide upon.

        Randy

Randy

Ron Hill

Randy : Which issue of the Mainsheet C36 tech notes was that windless installation in?    :?:
Ron, Apache #788

Randy Stolze

Ron,

     The article was printed in the February 1997 Mainsheet.  I was wrong about maintining the factory anchor roller. They added a custom bow sprit with new rollers.

     Thanks to John Sneider for pointing out this great reference! The C36 Tech Notes CD is $10.00 on their website.

Randy
Randy

Stu Jackson

Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."