Float switch - bilge pump

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Brad Colon

While getting things ready for the spring launch I noticed that my automatic float switch for the bilge pump stayed on after the switch was returned to the normal (down) position. I cleaned under the part that floats and checked the switch a couple more times and it seemed okay. Besides it was getting close to launch time.
This week end when I was entering the boat I thought that I heard something running. I lifted the floor boards and sure enough there was the trusty bilge pump running. I touched the pump and it was rather warm if not hot. We have had numerous rain storms this week and enough water had entered through the mast to activated the switch. Unfortunately it did not shut off.
I added more water to the bilge and the pump removed it with no problem. At least I had not cooked the pump itself as there must have been enough water left in the bilge to keep the pump from burning up.
The pump would stop if the switch was placed on manual off, so there was no short in the switch to keep it running.
I then sponged dry the bilge to make sure there were no leaks anywhere and headed off for a new float switch. With the bilge still being dry the next morning I patched the one screw hole (as the new screw holes would not line up with both of the old holes) and installed the new float switch.
I guess the morale of the story is "if in doubt, change it out."
I am glad that the pump did not get ruined and then some time when I needed it it would not have been serviceable.
I was impressed that Catalina had sealed the connections into a section of  hose filled with sealant. This hose was then secured to the bottom of the floor under the table.  This made for a virtual water tight seal in the event the bilge would completely flood- ensuring the pump would not short out. A good idea.
1994 CAPTIVATED # 1285

Ron Hill

Brad : Float switches go bad.  I think you need to replace yours.  
Lift the switch and you should feel/hear the pump hum - lower the float and it should shut off.  
Remember the bilge pump float switch should be wired directly into your largest battery bank (& fused).   :wink:
Ron, Apache #788

Paul Bosquet

I too had the same problem with the float switch plus my pump was acting up on me.  Replace the switch and pump  with new and the switch is still leaving the pump on with no water  left i the bilge.  I tighten the screw  holding  the float switch and  that did not make any difference. Sometimes it works well sometime it doesn't.
Now I have seen it all . A FLOAT SWITCH WITH AN ATTITUDE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Paul
ELIOSSO , ( Goddess of Lakes & Rivers )
C34, 1989, Hull #986

shelton

I replaced my float switch today because the pump was not coming on with what should have been enough water.  After removing the switch, I found that it would stay in any position in which I manually placed it due to an accumulation of slime and other material.  (Lesson learned:  use bilge cleaner faithfully.)  I probably could have just cleaned it up, but it's too important for that kind of faith, so I replaced it with a new one.  

Here's the disturbing part:  A light tug on the wires from the old switch while tracing them out to the connectors caused them to come apart.   I discovered there were no connectors.  The connections were made by simply twisting them together and covering them with electrical tape.  The tape was loose and fell away as I handled it.  These "connections" were also laying below the water line of the bilge.  The wire coating was saturated and the wires corroded.  I had to cut them back to a dry area to find good wire to splice the new switch into.  I highly recommend inspection of the bilge float switch wire connections to ensure they are robust and dry.

Ron Hill

Larry : I see that you've discovered how most "boat yard mechanics" do their wiring!!  
You never mentioned if your float switch positive wire was fused - VERY important!!!

When my boat was commissioned (way back when), I found a couple of "screw ups".  
There was a household TV connector between the VHF coax cable from the mast to the coax inside the boat.  The TV is 75 ohms impedance, where the marine VHF needs a 50 ohm impedance connector!!
The yellow? + wire from my float switch direct to the battery had NO fuse!!
You're learning  :clap
Ron, Apache #788