dirty fuel revisited

[Ed Shankle]

I replaced my fuel tank last year; and have a "watch out" for you.
Catalina included new fittings (fuel out and fuel return) with barbed ends as well as a new sender with the new tank. However, both ends of the fittings, the barbed and the threaded were different dimensions from mine. At first I thought it was just the barbed end so I figured I would just re-install the old ones. Then I realized the threaded end was also different. After a few phone calls, Catalina sent me the correct fittings. Cost me 2 additional weeks to get the job finished.
So the "watch out" is, give them the dimensions of your fittings so that they send you the configuration.

Ed

[Mike Vaccaro]

One more "gotcha" is the type of metal that the fitting is made from.  Best to use all aluminum to avoid dissimilar metal corrosion.  Older tanks used brass fittings.  If you can't wait for the proper sized fitting, you can make an "in line" reducer out of a brass fitting to allow you to mate a 1/2" nipple at the tank to your existing 3/8" line (for example).  Be sure to leave the line slightly over-length if you intend to come back and remove the reducer and hook up the fuel line to a proper sized fitting at some point in the future.  Be sure to properly seal the threads of the fittings during installation.  The only down-side to this type of "reducer" in-line as a potential leak point in the future.  Although our boats have a low-pressure system, all fuel lines should be double clamped.  When I replaced our tank last year, the original clamps had corroded so badly that most of them simply snapped off in my hand.

Cheers,

Mike

[jpaulroberts]

OK guys, I've been listening in and I too am going to replace my tank. I have a 1987 C-34, #296. My engine was replaced in 1991 with a Westerbeke 27 hp. Aside from the new tank, what do I need to do to my engine to make sure any old fuel in the system does not contaminated new fuel in a new tank, or does it mater? Thanks, Jerry

[Ted Pounds]

Jerry,

You shouldn't have to do anything.  Any fuel that's made it to your engine has been filtered already (if it wasn't your engine would be toast).    

[Ron Hill]

Jerry : Ted is right.  Just make sure that you have a clean 2 micron Racor filter and a clean engine fuel filter.  
From the age of your boat I'd definitely pull the tank and clean/replace it.  That'll save you much grief in the future!!  

[jkar]

OK, I am going to replace my tank in my '87 #332.  However I can't find the "Main Sheet article" on how to do it.  Vol. 22 #4 Nov. 2004 says it has it, but only has a rudder modification.  Vol. 21 #4 Nov. 2003 has the same index but I get this "You have reached a page that is either non-existant or in error" Also can anyone tell me what the time was from ordering the tank to having delivered so I can figure out if I need to cancel my Memorial weekend plans?  Thanks, Joel

[Mike Vaccaro]

Joel,

First, empty your tank.  Easiest way to do it is to attach a temporary hose to the OUT side of the electric fuel pump.  Have enough jerry cans handy to hold the fuel.  Since it's run through your primary filter first, it should be clean enough to re-use.  You can turn the pump on and off with the key on your engine control panel.  

Then, clean out your aft compartment!  This may be the worst part of the job...

Remove the port teak bulkhead in the aft berth.  This is held in place with wood screws around the forward, aft and lower perimeter.

To remove the tank, you'll need to disconnect the fill hose (large hose on the top aft end) and the vent hose (small hose on the top aft end).  Both hoses are held in place with hose clamps and may be re-used if they are in good shape.  Disconnect the two wires leading to the fuel sender.  Disconnect the fuel lines from the front of the tank.  

If you haven't recently replaced the fuel lines, find USCG approved fuel line and replace them as well.  You'll have a line from the tank to the electric pump and from the pump to the engine, as well as a fuel return line from the engine back to the tank.  Be sure to plug your lines as you work to avoid small fuel spills--the diesel smell is tough to get rid of, so it pays to work neatly!  After you've disconnected all the lines, the tank can be removed by loosening the lag bolts along the flange welded to the forward bottom edge of the tank.  I believe that the older stock tanks had two or three bolts.  Before you lift the tank off the shelf, plug the ports since you'll still have some fuel and/or sludge in the tank that can spill.

Get someone to help you lift the tank out of the aft compartment--this will help avoid spills.

Re-install in reverse order.  You may have to drill new holes for the lag bolts that secure the tank, but be careful when you drill the outboard hole (closest to the hull) to make sure that you don't drill through the hull (this is an important safety technique!).  Our new tank came with the flange pre-drilled for two 1/4" lag bolts.  I drilled an additional two holes in the flange for a total of four bolts.  The purpose of the bolts is to keep the tank from shifting--it is held in place by the support platform, hull and bulkhead.  

Measure the inside diameter of your fuel lines and specify the proper dimension for the fuel fittings when you order the new tank.  Depending on manufacture, you may or may not be able to use your old fittings, but many old fittings are brass or steel and best avoided to eliminate problems with dissimilar metal corrosion.  Aluminum pipe fittings are not common and generally not available at the local hardware store.  I'd also recommend that you replace the fuel sender unit at this time.  Be sure to seal the gasket with a sealant appropriate for use in fuel systems.  

This technique was shamelessly stolen from a great article written by Ron Hill for the Mainsheet!

Best of luck,

Mike