X Power inverter

[mike lofstrom]

While shopping for goodies at our local Costco this week, I noticed that they had a bunch of Xantrex Xpower inverters in stock.  The 1500 W versions were $85 and the 400 W were only $25.  This is the cheapest that I have ever seen these, so I bought one.  I don't know if all Costco stores stock the same stuff, but it would be worth a look if anybody out there needs one.

Cheers!

[captran]

That sounds like the deal of the century!   You should go buy the lot of them and sell them on ebay for 100% profit.   I checked Costco on line and only found one with wheels and some very small wattage inverters (  http://www.costco.com/Common/Search.aspx?whse=&topnav=&search=inverter  ).  So I am wondering if this was just a local thing where you are.  I'll check our local costco this week.  I had earlier posted a comment and discussion about inverters.  I still have not made a decision, but it boiled down to the statpower (which seems related to Xantrex) vs Xantrex prowatt vs Xpower.  The technician said the X power, which is cheaper, has a meter on the side but the prowatt has the light bars.  My original was a statpower "portawattz 1000" which I want to replace even though it works after getting soaked.  There are small areas of rust around the edges on the outside so I can imagine what the inside looks like, but it was obviously fairly durable.

[Stu Jackson]

Randy:  Have Mike buy one for you!

Mike: Buy one for Randy!

[mike lofstrom]

This is the model that I bought at the local Costco.  http://www.xantrex.com/web/id/165/p/1/pt/5/product.asp it is a very basic model.  It does not have any meters, and cannot be hardwired or use a remote control.  (But  it was only 85 bucks!)  Two of the Costco stores in my area had pallets of these  (Hayward and Richmond) even though they are not on the Costco website.  Check your local store.

[captran]

I think I'll go with the one that can be hard wired, since that is what is on the boat, and the convenience of just being able to flip the switch is great.  I have quite a list developing for my next trip to west marine, as I am hoping to get most of the few items remaining in one fell swoop.  (the Insurance Co was nice enough to send an additional 10% off coupon, so with price match, and my two 15 bucks rewards certificates, I'll save a few there).

The steps are sanded and looking very nice with their first coat of helmsman varnish. The triangular piece at the foot of the bed has 4 coats of varnish and looks better than new. RayMarine called and can replace the electronic boards for only  $300. plus shipping and handling and should work as good as new! They offered reconditioned ST60's for $480. but they would be grey and the cut out bigger but said the wiring of the ST 50's would be compatible, but I saw now advantage to switching them out.  Should have them in a few weeks.  After 14 hours to carefully sand the worse of the two cabinets I have come to the realization I'll make new cabinets.  There are a few areas where there is small grey streaks in the grain and one minute cracking in the grain that was obviously a defect in the original wood (as the crack extends from below the cupboard door cut out to above it).  A woodworker friend suggested I try a filler/coating designed to fill the small cracks/defects, which I might try for the heck of it, but leaning toward new cabinets.  I have the part numbers for H&L for the moldings and am looking around to see if I can get some two faced ply locally.  But am also seeing what they would charge to build new at a big yard on the coast that has a woodworking department.  And still no word on approval from the insurance Co on the approval for the outside work.  Will call Friday if I haven't heard as that will have been 2 weeks since submitting the estimate.

Happy sailing to all of you.  With the first snow here I'm sure looking forward to spring!

[Ron Hill]

You have to decide what you're going to operate with that inverter.  That determines the size.  
I only have a printer that requires AC so the small cig lighter plug in 300/400w works fine.  Don't need that if I have the Honda 1KW running - while at anchor.  

[tstrand]

I'm not recommending - in any legal sense - that anyone try this, but it seems like it would be easy to remove the front panel, remove the receptacles, and replace them with a wire to your AC system. I can't imagine this NOT voiding your warranty, though.

Tim

[Ted Pounds]

Tim,

The problem with that is you need a surefire way make sure the inverter is disconnected from the AC when on shore power.  You're right it would void the warranty because the first time the output was connected to another AC source the inverter would be toast.     You could rig up a double pole double throw switch for the AC power system to prevent that, but I think it easiest and best to keep the inverter isolated.

[tstrand]

I called Xantrex technical support (very helpful folks, by the way) and got a bit more information. A switch would definitely be required to select between shorepower and inverter, as Ted suggested, since driving the inverter's outputs with shorepower would indeed damage the inverter.

The guy I talked to mentioned several times that this is an "entry level unit," and that marine customers would be well-advised to consider the other fine Xantrex units.

Before hanging up he said "well, good luck with that!"

[Jim Price]

I picked one up here in Atlanta at Costco.  Another Fleet 13 (yes, it is becoming active again) member already is in process of mounting in a 2002 boat.  Batteries and wiring are a little different from mine (1991) but I am going to work with him to design.  My initial thought is to run "plug-in" wires (large gage) to an isolator switch and then to special AC receptacles for appliance plug-ins.  This would not put this special receptacle in the boat AC shore power grid so no possible feedback from switches set wrong when on shore power.  Just my initial thought without working with my Fleet mate.

[Stu Jackson]

If you keep the circuits absolutely separate, it sounds like a reasonable idea.

If not, look at this:

http://www.c34ia.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=833&highlight=8132

[mike lofstrom]

I mounted the inverter under the nav table this weekend.  I have looked at several selector switches that could be used to switch between shore power and inverter power, and most of them are > 100$!  Since I am doing this project on the cheap, I just can't justify putting a selector switch in the boat that costs more than the inverter.   Here's my solution.  I am going to disconnect the existing AC outlets in the boat from the AC breaker, and attach them to a short AC Male plug under the nav station.  I will then take the output of the breaker and put it on a short female cord in the same location.  When using the inverter, I will plug the outlets into the inverter. When on shore power, I will plug them into the short cord from the shore-power breaker.  With this system, It is impossible to cross connect the two systems.  I think this method is covered somewhere else on this site as well.  

One of the things I noticed when I installed the inverter was the lack of a battery return (Negative) cable behind the main switch panel, and the marginal size of the Battery cables going to the Battery selector switches.  (4AWG?) I added  a return cable to the house bank for the inverter, but eventually an upgrade in the cables to 2 AWG would be a better solution for this size inverter.  I don't plan to use all 1500 W on this thing, so I think it will be OK for now.  Isn't it funny how these (simple) projects always end up taking twice as long to do, and end up costing twice as much as you thought!!    If expense is the diploma of experience, boat owners should all be Honorary PHd's by now!!

Happy Holidays!

[Ted Pounds]

Mike,

Here's another idea that might be simpler:  Make up a cord with a regular male plug at one end to plug into inverter outlet.  At the other end attach a female shore power (30 amp) plug.  Plug that end into your shore power receptacle.  The drawback is you have this cord running from the inverter outside to the shore power receptacle.  The advantage is it's very simple and requires no modification to the boat.  Just a thought...

[David Sanner]

Or another... not as safe/official option would be to make a double ended male extension cord (well labeled). When you are not connected to shore power plug one end into any outlet and then the other end into the inverter.... then turn on the inverter, in that order. Remove in the opposite order before you plug into shore power as any voltage on the inverter output can damage it. Safe as long as no one unplugs the extension/jumper cord while the inverter is turned on.... so this isn't for everyone.

A far safer option that I've been thinking about installing is a DPDT 20amp switch in my elec panel. I've found a switch that would work for $10 at a local hardware store. The switch would route power from either the main AC power on the board or the inverter to the outlets only. This way I don't have to worry about turning off the battery charger, hot water heater, etc.

It's on the list... but seems to be getting pushed down by other projects.

[Paul Bosquet]

I installed a Xantex 1000 under the starboard settee near my 4 Trojan 6 volts batteries. I had 2 separate outlets installed, 1 at the nav table for TV and other accessories and another outlet near the galley,, They are wired separate from the ac system directly to the inverter with a male plug in the inverter . The control switch is located at the nav station. This system has worked great this year and the toasts were delicious.
Paul
Eliosso C34