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[Stu Jackson]

When you're having a great cruise, but then, magically, the engine won't start, one of the first things to do is to check the starter solenoid fuse holder.

We did last week, and found the wire from the solenoid intact, the fuse holder intact, but a space of about 3 inches between them!

Evidently, the 18 year old, $1.24 fuse holder solder connection failed.  Don't ya just wish they made better stuff that would last longer!

In about a half hour I installed a new wire with a new spade connector to the solenoid, and put in a new fuse holder butt connected to the wire through the harness to the starter button.  The old fuse looks to be a slow blow, so I cleaned it up and put it back in the new fuse holder.

Just a reminder that it's there.  BTW, it's VERY helpful to have electrical tools, wire and fuse holders on board.  This was written up in one of the earlier 1980's FAQs, but it happened to me last week.  Glad I could still remember reading it.

Stu

[Ron Hill]

Guy's : As I wrote in the Mainsheet "not only check the starter solonoid fuse. but check the ends of the fuse holder for corrosion".  
I ran into this problem on a friends boat when everything checked out, but the engine would not turn over.  

[Ron Hill]

In one of my Mainsheet tips I mentioned an old "shade tree mechanics" trick:

Take a long screwdriver (with an insulated handle) and lay handle end of the blade on the starter solenoid stud.  Then touch the tip end to the engine block for just a second.  If you hear the starter kick over, then the solenoid and the starter are OK - the problem is elsewhere.  In fact you can even start the engine that way in an emergency.  

I failed to mention in the above post that it's a good idea to clean off the fuse holder terminals with some fine sand paper and then a shot of turner cleaner or WD40.  

A few thoughts.

[Mike and Theresa Vaccaro]

Another trick for maintaining in-line fuses is to use a liberal amount of dielectric silicone when you change fuses.  Another option is "bulb grease" which is sold for treating electrical connections in cars and trucks at your local automotive store.  This does a great job of minimizing corrosion, even in a nasty salt-infested environment.  This is a case where ANYTHING is better than nothing.

Cheers,

Mike

[Stu Jackson]

Here's a picture of our relocated starter fuse.

[Ron Hill]

I just re-looked at Stu's write up and I believe that that 20 amp fuse should be a regular fuse NOT a "slow blow" !!   

[Jack Hutteball]

Interesting information.  On my  2001 MKll I don't even have any access on the port side of the engine as on the older boats.  Plus I am not sure even where the starter solenoid fuse is on my boat.  Guess I better find out soon.  As for using Ron's screwdriver trick to start the engine, I can not even see the starter from any position I can get to around the engine. 

Jack

[Stu Jackson]

Newer engines are larger and have less access.  Ours is an M25, Ron has an XP. 

Newer engines may have circuit breakers instead of fuses.