Seaward water heater

[Ed Shankle]

Another little commissioning "gnat" this year; the small drain spigot at the bottom of my hot water heater frozen in the open position, and when initially trying to turn it closed the "handle" broke free and just spins. As a temporary fix I put a piece of tubing on the barbed fitting, clamped it on and clamped off the other end. I'd like to replace though. Can't figure out how it disconnects from the heater. Anyone experience this before?
It's a Seaward, so I tried to get some tech help, but Seaward on the net doesn't even list this type of product. I wonder if there is another Seaward or they just don't make water heaters anymore.

Ed

[Ed Shankle]

Did a Google and found the right Seaward. Got a number and will give them a call.

[Ed Shankle]

Talked with Seaward tech service, who said if they didn't build it they wouldn't have any info on it. It was origianlly built by Atwood. Gave me the number and I spoke with their tech service. Bottom line is, if I can't coax off the spigot, which he confirmed is screwed on, then the only alternative is to replace the heater.
So I think the safe thing to do for now is let my jury rig fix remain and look for a more permenent attachment to secure to the barbed end of the spigot. I'm not replacing the heater for that.

Ed

[Ken Juul]

The drain spigot should be standard pipe threads.  I think 1/2".  Should be able to pick one up at any decent hardware store.  Give it a good shot of liquid wrench or PB Blaster and let it sit for a while before you try.  Since it is plastic, if it breaks, it should be easy pick the pieces out.  That said, you only use the spigot to drain, if your happy with your plug put it on the winter project list.

[reedbr]

I agree with Ken that those fittings are standard pipe threads, at least they were on my Seaward unit.  I used PVC fittings from Home Depot to fix mine.  Your heater is different than the one on my MkII, but maybe a picture of the inner aluminum tank will make it a little clearer:

http://users.erols.com/reedbr/c34/index.htm

You might even be able to plumb a good valve on the end of your broken valve similar to your clamped hose setup.  This would be a semi-permanent fix you could run for another couple years or until the whole heater needs to be replaced.

Good luck.

[Mike and Theresa Vaccaro]

Ed,

There's also an over-pressure relief valve on the tank (looks like a spigot)--this is standard on any hot water tank and you can get a replacement in the plumbing department at any hardware store.  Only have to match the pressure rating (which should be stamped on the valve).  

This valve prevents the tank from rupturing due to over-pressurization.

Best of Luck,

Mike