Does your wheel autopilot work well?

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

MarknCat

Hi, we are doing a significant refit due to some salt water intrusion, and as part of that we'll be replacing all the wear items on the original steering system and it got me thinking... should I upgrade to a below deck autopilot?

My ST60/EV100 drive is awful.. if there is any swell or chop it is completely worthless, either under sail or motoring. The control and compass I assume are original and the wheel drive is a newer replacement (2022). The screen on the control head is almost unreadable and I actually have no idea where the compass is.

I was similarly disappointed with an all new EV100 system I put on my previous boat, a Hunter 30T.

Is "only works on calm seas and under perfect conditions" just par for the course for wheel drive autopilots? Or have I just had poor experiences?

I am willing to go through the effort to install a below deck if that's the only way to get a reasonably functional autopilot, but if the problem is simply poorly installed or old wheel systems, I'd rather just install an all new EV100.

We live and sail in the upper keys and mostly use the autopilot to steer while raising or dousing sails and to go forward for dolphin watching, etc. Inside the reef, surf conditions are often 2-3ft seas, often confused and a short period.

I'd appreciate hearing your experiences with your wheel autopilot.

Thanks!
MarknCat
Barefoot Life
C34MKii Hull #1483

waughoo

My boat came with an st60 autopilot with the fluxgate and wheel drive, but they were all toast.  I rebuilt the wheel drive, bought all the other parts used to make an ev100 autopilot.  I also added a rudder reference sensor.  I have found the wheel pilot to be quite fantastic now.  I believe the difference is the rudder reference.  In following seas under sail, the autopilot steers quite well using counter corrections as the waves roll under the transom.  It also hunts less on up wind and beam to sailing giving much fewer inputs than systems I've used without the rudder reference.  I really want to upgrade to a below deck pilot mainly because of the ease to engage and disengage as well as avoiding belt slip when I have forgotten to trim the sails accordingly.  That said, I no longer have any reason to complain about what my wheel pilot does.

I'd say, if you want a project on a boat you plan to keep, go below deck.  However, if you want a VERY much improved easier to install system, stick with an ev100 but add a rudder reference.  I have been extremely impressed with what mine can deal with.
Alex - Seattle, WA
91 mk1.5 #1120
Std rig w/wing keel
Universal M35
Belafonte

Jim Hardesty

I mostly single hand on Lake Erie.  I installed an ev100 wheel pilot with the rudder position sensor it's also integrated with my wind instrument.  It works well enough, I sail under autopilot mostly, would guess 95% of the time.  But, need to work with the autopilot, sail trim is important, avoid excessive pressure on the helm, if there's a chop may need to bear off a few degrees to keep the speed/power up and of course need to be very careful running dead down wind or near to.
I'm happy with the wheel pilot. It's steered all over Lake Erie, to the North Channel of Lake Huron thru the Straights of Mackinaw and into Lake Michigan.  I'm confident enough to do night passages under autopilot.  Don't use the wind function often, believe the boat motion and wind upset the windvane and doesn't steer the boat well enough.
I do think the wheel drive is marginal for Shamrock.  Considered a below deck drive.  My reasons for not doing were, wasn't straightforward install and if there was a problem underway it wouldn't be quick to access.  I keep the proper allen wrench handy if I need to disconnect the wheel drive (for emergency's have a multitool/knife in a sheaf lashed to the binnacle guard with the allen wrench in that sheaf) and carry a spare wheel drive.
Hope that helps,
Jim
 
Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA

Noah

#3
Installing a below deck autopilot is a pretty involved (and can be expensive) project. I know as I have done it on my MKI 1990 (sugar scoop boat). I assume I have more room back there than on a MKII. That being said, my autopilot works great! It is an older B&G hydraulic/electric ram model. There are a couple of others on this website who have gone with below deck pilots as well (even on MKIIs), so search here for info.

Meanwhile, Jon W. has a CPT autopilot, which I think he likes. That pilot is strictly for holding a course direction and doesn't interface with any navigation or wind inputs/functions. Just point in the direction you want to go, engage it, and it keeps that course.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Ron Hill

Guys : I have an English Made belt driven wheel Pilot and it works great!!  I'm not too sure about the WX limits, as I disconnect when the wind pipes up!!

However, the best is the below deck installations!!

A few thoughts
Ron, Apache #788

waughoo

I have mine connected to the network and almost always sail to a wind angle vs a heading.  On lighter wind days, it is not as stable as using heading (especially on close hull). I have used it on broad reaches under wind control and it is stable enough for me not to worry.
Alex - Seattle, WA
91 mk1.5 #1120
Std rig w/wing keel
Universal M35
Belafonte

britinusa

Boat came to us with the old Raymarine Wheelpilot Autopilot, never worked well and eventually failed. New unit is the Raymarine ( EV100 Wheelpilot with Rudder Position Sensor. Works Great. Interfaces with our Garmin Network via a NEMA2000 to SeaTalk2K interconnect. That means that the Autopilot can follow 'Heading', 'Wind' or 'Track'. ie. If we setup a track on our Garmin 943xsv then we can switch the AP to Track Mode and it will ask if we want to turn onto the Track. Selecting 'Yes' will cause the AP to automatically turn towards the nearest segment of the track and then, when it intersects the track, it will automatically turn along the track and keep on course. When we reach a Turn point on the track, the AP will ask if we want to turn, selecting 'Yes' will put the boat on the next segment of the track, selecting 'no' will drop out of Track Mode. Love it! I posted an article about the Rudder Position Sensor on my blog.
Paul & Peggy
1987 C34 Tall Rig Fin Keel - Hull # 463

See you out on the water

Engine:M25XP

AndyBC

#7
When I bought my MKII last year, it had an older model Raymarine wheel pilot that no longer worked.  I installed the EV100 and it has worked flawlessly for me.  No rudder sensor.  Fully integrated with my other instruments including chartplotter.  My favourite feature: I can plot a destination on the chartplotter and the autopilot will automatically make the required turns to get me there (WITHOUT me having to click 'yes' at every turn! Obviously easier when motoring).

I note that Raymarine has stated a 16,500 lbs limit for the wheel autopilot.  My boat weighed in at 15,900 lbs at last haul-out so I guess I'm just within spec.  I sail on Lake Ontario and the autopilot has been fine for the conditions that I'm in, but no doubt it would be overpowered in very strong wind/waves (I'd probably not be out in such conditions anyway).  I think a lot of the issues have to do with incorrect placement of the compass/EV1 sensor core.
1998 C34 MKII #1394 - M35BC, WK

Jim Hardesty

QuoteI think a lot of the issues have to do with incorrect placement of the compass/EV1 sensor core.

As I remember the instructions the placement was not critical.  I installed it under the aft bunk starboard about beside the shaft log.  If I may ask, where did you install the sensor?
Jim
Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA

Noah

#9
As I mostly single-hand, I am a bit paranoid using my autopilot to initiate pre-programmed course changes based upon route and waypoints. I may be doing something elsewhere on deck or down below when the autopilot would decide it is time to change course. So, I prefer to initiate course changes manually, albeit still using the autopilot.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Jon W

#10
I installed a CPT Autopilot, and would buy it again. I think it's a great piece of equipment, and the right solution for me. Sails by heading only, no frills. Low current draw so my solar panels more than keep up, strong motor, built for immersion, quiet, and works everytime. I solo sail in the ocean, and San Diego Bay. I've been in 20 knot winds with ocean swells and the CPT held course fine. Proper sail trim is critical for any auto pilot or windvane to work properly. If I were to do extended cruising I would look into a windvane before installing a below deck unit. I'm currently playing around with a sheet to tiller set-up using the emergency tiller.
Jon W.
s/v Della Jean
Hull #493, 1987 MK 1, M25XP, 35# Mantus, Std Rig
San Diego, Ca

AndyBC

Quote from: Jim Hardesty on January 06, 2025, 11:50:42 AM
QuoteI think a lot of the issues have to do with incorrect placement of the compass/EV1 sensor core.

As I remember the instructions the placement was not critical.  I installed it under the aft bunk starboard about beside the shaft log.  If I may ask, where did you install the sensor?
Jim

For reference, below are the EV1 location requirements.  I mounted mine under the port saloon cushion forward of the holding tank.  Apparently the EV1 can be pretty sensitive to electromagnetic interference so I'm always mindful that nothing of that sort is placed on top of that cushion while using the autopilot.

Location requirements — EV–1 and EV–2
The installation location must take into account the following
requirements:
• Install above or below decks.
• Mount on a horizontal and level surface. The unit may be
mounted upright or upside-down, but the back and front of the
unit must be level within 5º of pitch and 5º of roll (compared
with the vessel's neutral position when at rest and normally
loaded).
• Install flat on a deck, or mounted to a bulkhead, mast or other
vertical surface, using the supplied bracket to fit and orient the
unit horizontally.
• Location must be at least 1 m (3 ft.) away from any source
of magnetic interference, such as compasses and electrical
cables.
• Safe from physical damage and excessive vibration.
• Away from any source of heat.
• Away from any potential flammable hazard, such as fuel
vapors.
• Must be mounted with the arrow on the top of the unit in
parallel alignment with the vessel's longitudinal axis.
1998 C34 MKII #1394 - M35BC, WK

Kyle Ewing

My experience with the EV100 wheel is the same as Jim Hardesty. I use the wind heading except when motoring.  Trim is important and I'm more likely to reef early to avoid over powering the autopilot.
Kyle Ewing
Donnybrook #1010
Belmont Harbor, Chicago
http://www.saildonnybrook.com/

LogoFreak

I did a below deck install in my 1992 mk 1.5 I intend to do some offshore cruising with this boat which is why it was worth the effort to me. In the end after figuring out everything then actual install wasn't hard. Wheel pilot works fine as long as your sail trim is good, otherwise it will overpower it. Not having to listen to the wheel pilot under way has been great though  :clap

https://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=10763.0
Antoni - Vancouver BC
1992 Catalina 34 Tall rig fin keel mk 1.5 "Polonaise"
Hull number 1179