Water heater replacement, Atwood or Kuuma?

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pablosgirl

While on the boat this week I noticed that the bilge pump was cycling and so was the pressure water pump. So the original Atwood water heater is shot.  Some online shopping shows that I can get the Kuuma 11812 from Hodges Marine for $297.05 and the Atwood marine S600 from Boat & RV Accessories for$385.09.  Both have the same dimensions with the rear heat exchanger connections.  Does anyone have any experience with either of these.  I am inclined to go with the Atwood since the original lasted this long. Does anyone have the Kuuma model and was it a drop in replacement.
Paul & Cyndi Shields
1988 hull# 551 Tall Rig/Fin Keel
M25XP

waughoo

I have the Kuuma, but it came with the boat.  I have no knowledge of how old it is.
Alex - Seattle, WA
91 mk1.5 #1120
Std rig w/wing keel
Universal M35
Belafonte

scgunner

Paul,

I'm impressed it's lasted this long my original rusted through about 20 years ago. It was a regular non-marine RV unit. I replaced it with a marine unit with a square S/S case which fit the space and worked fine until I took it out of line when I installed a flash heater.
Kevin Quistberg                                                 Top Gun 1987 Mk 1 Hull #273

Ron Hill

Paul : I found that the galvanized outside does the job. If you use Stainless (more $$) you don't gain much because they all have the same insides (NOT stainless)!!

A few thoughts
Ron, Apache #788

Jeff Tancock

Check all your fittings. I thought mine was shot but on examination it was just the plastic hot water out elbow fitting that was leaking. Had to replace with a brass fitting as that was all I could find on a remote island.
Lucky.....A $10 solution!
Jeff Tancock
Stray Cat #630
Victoria, BC
Canada
1988 25xp

Ron Hill

Guys : I replaced the both the inlet and outlet with brass fittings.  I found that the outlet got very HOT because it transmitted the heat from inside. I changed the outlet elbow back to nylon.

A thought
Ron, Apache #788

pablosgirl

Hi Jeff :santa ,

Thanks for the tip about the fittings.  I had already checked them. Also there was a pretty obvious stream of water flowing out between the bottom of the water heater and the plywood shelf. In addition the whole bottom of the outer case was pretty rusted. I think I got my moneys worth from it. I am now hoping for a Black Friday sale on marine water heaters. 
Paul & Cyndi Shields
1988 hull# 551 Tall Rig/Fin Keel
M25XP

Jim Hardesty

Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA

pablosgirl

I bypassed the hot water heater until I get a new one with a 1/2" nylon splice connector from WM. The bypass is a good idea but I live on the Texas gulf coast and I don't think it is worth the effort for me.  I will be replacing the hoses to the engine.
Paul & Cyndi Shields
1988 hull# 551 Tall Rig/Fin Keel
M25XP

Noah

Two "upgrades" I did on my fresh hot water system.
1. Added a temperature mix valve, to better regulate how hot the water is coming out of the tank.

2. Re-plumbed the hot output side with PEX A tubing to both sinks, which is better suited to carry high temperature water than original vinyl fresh water hose.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig