Winter projects

[crieders]

1. fuel tank. 35 years old, 1990 boat. some pitting. Is there a time to replace?
2. water tanks. hard to inspect the stern one. they are apparently plastic. Same questions. Time to replace?

[Ron Hill]

cliff : I don't know of any time to replace on either the water tanks or diesel tank. Mine is 2 years older than your and there are no leaks in the diesel (because I use oil based Water Zorb) - and should NEVER be any leaks in the water tanks - if properly winterized !!

A few thoughts

[Jon W]

Cliff, it depends on how well the PO's maintained the fuel and tank. Mine started leaking at 32 years old. After opening it up, the MK 1 tanks anyway have lots of areas to trap contaminants that can eat away at a very thin walled aluminum tank. I had a local welder make me a new tank with some modifications like thicker material and adding two access ports to the top. Hopefully you don't experience a leak, but I would start saving for a new tank now and hope you don't spend it.

[Noah]

I "second" Jon's comments. My fuel tank developed a pinhole leak after about 32-years.

[Diversion]

I ordered a new rudder this fall, removed the old rudder at haul out, so this winter I was hoping to drill the holes in the new rudder shaft to match the old rudder shaft...the new shaft is 3/8" shorter.  The emergency tiller cap had to be cut off so I ordered a new one, which fits a little lower than the old one did.  The question I have is, does the top tiller rest tight against the top rudder support under the aft seat hatch, or do I have some leeway here?  I was hoping to make up the 3/8" by raising the cap, and pushing the rudder a little closer to the hull, (I had about 1/2 gap on the old rudder) to make up the difference. Here's a pic of the new and old rudder, I chose the non elliptical, Rudder Craft recommended this tuned rudder instead.

[waughoo]

That is a LOT more rudder!!

[Diversion]

Yep, it is suppose to lessen round ups, prop walk control, up wind performance, and still easy on the helm!  I let you know next spring!

[Jim Hardesty]

Diversion,
To give you a little more work.  As long as you have the rudder off give the cutlass bearing a good look.  It's a bit easier to change without the rudder and if you do need to remove the shaft it's a lot easier without the rudder.

The question I have is, does the top tiller rest tight against the top rudder support under the aft seat hatch, or do I have some leeway here?  I was hoping to make up the 3/8" by raising the cap, and pushing the rudder a little closer to the hull, (I had about 1/2 gap on the old rudder) to make up the difference.

I have a MKII so Shamrock may be a little different.  The 1/2 inch gap may be the result of the spacer missing.  If it's like Shamrock there should be a spacer/bushing on the rudderpost between the rudder and the hull.  I would guess Shamrock's is about 1/4 inch thick.
Jim

[Diversion]

Thanks Jim, I did check the cutlass bearing, so far, good!  The spacer is still in place, so hopefully we can gain 1/4" on that end and 1/8" on the top.

[waughoo]

Yep, it is suppose to lessen round ups, prop walk control, up wind performance, and still easy on the helm!  I let you know next spring!

I look forward to the spring report!!