Wind indicator

[Jim Hardesty]

I would also suggest adding a pair of folding mast steps about 4 feet from the top of the mast.  It's so difficult to work on anything at the top of the mast from a bosuns chair that only goes up so high.
Did that on Shamrock and it helps a lot.
Jim

[Jon W]

Forgot to add if you're considering getting a whisker pole, this is a great time to add a t-track onto the mast for one. Easier and safer to deploy and store.

[krafty81]

Heading to the boatyard this week. What started off small is now large -

- Install wired Raymarine windex, hook into system
- Install new VHF with AIS and replace coax up mast
- Fix power to anchor light and replace with LED
- Replace all standing rigging

Any lessons learned appreciated!

[Noah]

If in addition to your Raymarine wind instrument, you have or plan to add a Davis mechanical Windex (which I recommend) also add an LED light to illuminate it. They make small lights just for this.  It will involve running another wire to the top of the mast. If you have room in your conduit, it is a nice add-on. Connect it to your navigation lights circuit (the red/green/stern) switch.

Also, change your masthead sheaves (at least your main and spinn. ones) to ballbearing ones.

[Noah]

As you are replacing your standing rigging, you might want to consider raising your split backstay (if a PO hasn't done it already). Instead of one turnbuckle high at the meeting point you can use two turnbuckles (one above at each chainplate) and raise the split connection up higher, since you will no longer need a reachable turnbuckle in the middle anymore.

[krafty81]

If in addition to your Raymarine wind instrument, you have or plan to add a Davis mechanical Windex (which I recommend) also add an LED light to illuminate it. They make small lights just for this.  It will involve running another wire to the top of the mast. If you have room in your conduit, it is a nice add-on. Connect it to your navigation lights circuit (the red/green/stern) switch.

Also, change your masthead sheaves (at least your main and spinn. ones) to ballbearing ones.

Great idea I was thinking about that the other night when we were out.

[Stu Jackson]

As you are replacing your standing rigging, you might want to consider raising your split backstay (if a PO hasn't done it already). Instead of one turnbuckle high at the meeting point you can use two turnbuckles (one above at each chainplate) and raise the split connection up higher, since you will no longer need a reachable turnbuckle in the middle anymore.

I believe this is CRITICAL.  I raised my backstay split eons ago and did NOT do this, and my remaining single turnbuckle is quite high for any easy maintenance and/or lubrication, it subsequently essentially froze!  It became a real effort to unfreeze.  Raising the split is a great thing to do, avoids head-banging, but needs to be done right.

[rmjohns]

I had the mast down this year to replace the standing rigging. One comment my rigger made was to not get a photoled for the anchor light to automatically shut off during daylight. Apparently that's another thing to break.

And I did replace all the wiring in the mast. I had switched to an LED stream/deck light and the thick wires they used for the deck light wouldn't fit in the new fixture. Catalina had used a 4 wire in a sheath cable called something like duraflex and so far as I could tell, it wasn't tinned. The other thing that allowed me to do was remove the plug in the mast step, the wires now come unbroken down to a junction box in the bilge.

Rob. 

[krafty81]

Thanks all for the help and advice! This forum has been so useful for me and my new boat!

[Gulfsailor]

I'd be curious to know how much the yard wants to drop and step the mast?

[krafty81]

I'd be curious to know how much the yard wants to drop and step the mast?

1000, that includes leaving my mast there for a week while my rigger works on it.

[Jon W]

Jim, what blocks and chair do you use to go up the mast? Thanks.