Wiring directly to starter

[ghebbns]

This is a follow up to my post from a few days ago.  I have had intermittent problems starting my engine. When I push the start, there is nothing.  Usually if I wait a few minutes, it starts no problem.  There was one time last year that it just refused to start and we had to sail to the dock (which was an interesting experience!!)

In reading the threads about this, I see mention of wiring a temporary start switch directly to the starter and "jumping" this to start the engine if all else fails.  I haven't been able to find many details about this.  Would anyone have info or a link (or suggestions) about setting this up as a "just in case".

Thanks,

Greg

[Ron Hill]

Greg : Look at the 30A fuse HOLDER and make sure the contact ends are CLEAN.

We've recommended that everyone stop using the glass BUSS fuses & holder and change to the stab-in fuses!!

a thought

[ghebbns]

Thanks Ron.  I replaced this last year :)

[waughoo]

I don't have a link to share, but the process is to apply 12v+ to the solenoid terminal on the the starter.  I rigged up a temporary one when I adjusted the valves to bump the engine over.  Mine was purchased at the auto parts store and has two alligator clips on the end of a push button.  I connected one lead to the 12v+ lug on the starter and the other to the dissassembled glass fuse holder.   

[Ron Hill]

Greg : You can also take a long screwdriver (with wood or plastic handle) - lay the shank on the starter solenoid stud then touch the engine block with the tip of the screwdriver and you should hear the starter kick in!!

A thought

[ghebbns]

Thanks all.
I was able to get down to the boat for a short visit today and tried the engine.  It started off no problem.  After letting it run for awhile, I turned it off and waited a few minutes.  The first time I engaged the start button - nothing.  But I noticed that none of the gauges moved when I pressed the start button.  I immediately tried again and it turned over.

The fact that the gauges did not change when I first engaged it seems to indicate to me that the button was not engaging.  Does this make sense or is it just me hoping for an easy fix?

[KWKloeber]

take a long screwdriver (with wood or plastic handle) - lay the shank on the starter solenoid stud then touch the engine block with the tip of the screwdriver

Ron:
No no, Garfunkle.  You'll hear the Sounds of Silence.  

One needs to short the solenoid "S" (start) terminal to the solenoid "B" (battery) terminal (i.e., apply 12v to the solenoid or alternately as Alex did, to the fuse pigtail.)  Grounding the "S" terminal does nothing, it needs 12v to energize the coil and pull in the switch. 

Some old "Ford type" solenoids needed a negative to energize the the coil (like on a positive chassis,) but that was not the norm. (Without dating myself) I used to short the solenoid battery cable lug to the "S" terminal on my Mercury Comet.


Greg, also remember that the weakest links are improper wire gauge from the start switch, a bad (key or push-button) start switch or corroded/loose terminals, bad (corroded) battery cable NEGATIVE lugs, NOT moving the negative battery cable lug to the starter bolt (i.e., keeping it on the bell housing) and ESPECIALLY the poorly designed "S" terminal itself (even after the fuse holder is replaced.)
https://groups.io/g/Catalina30/wiki/7401
https://groups.io/g/Catalina30/wiki/11336

[Ron Hill]

Greg : Clean all of your battery cable connections at the batteries!! Then make sure that the ground (-) has a clean/solid connection to the engine block!!

Make sure that when you press IN the starter button that you press it in "all the way""

A few thoughts