How does one resolve a cracked strut when there are no replacements available?.

[Rees]

My cutlass bearing needed to be replaced.  While a bearing puller was attached a hairline crack was discovered in the strut (see photo). The job was aborted without replacement of the bearing.  I was told that when this strut fails that is the end of my boat as there are no replacements, that is unless I can find one in a scrap yard. I'm told that welding doesn't work for bronze parts such as this.  Has anyone out there dealt with this problem and come up with a workable solution? 

I have contacted Catalina Parts. I was told that many records were lost in a tornado a few years ago. This included the ones for my strut . While this sounds like a particularly sad story in itself, this also means I don't even have records to tell me to which specific boats used this particular strut.  I am imagining that the strut is year specific due to changing hull designs, especially after my boat was built in 1989.  Any input would be appreciated.

[Jon W]

Catalina Direct sells a prop strut part number Z2228. Expensive, but worth checking if it will work on your boat.

[Jim Hardesty]

I did a quick search here, this may help.  There's a lot more in the search that I didn't read

https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,10204.msg78748.html#msg78748

Jim

[Noah]

Your boatyard gave you some bad advice. I would switch yard or boatworkers. I got one for my 1990 boat a few years ago from Catalina Direct but I believe it is/was made by Buck Algonquin.
https://www.propellerdepot.com/struts

[Bill Shreeves]

i would imagine that, if repair was something that HAD to be considered, I'd guess that a prop shop might be able to knowing they're capable of repairing cracked bronze props. if there was substantial electrolysis, that would reduce the possibility of repair.  Personally, repair would be my last choice.

BTW, ditto on the boat yard advice...

[Jim Hardesty]

Rees,
After looking at your photo again, if it were me, I would investigate that crack some more before doing a lengthy and costly repair.  Especially if the crack doesn't show on the other side of the strut.  Unless you, or the yard, hit something the suspected crack has probably been there for quite a while.  Possibly from the factory.  It may only be a surface imperfection that looks like a crack.  I would start with filing, sanding and polishing the area around the suspected crack.  Get it smooth and shinney.  Then use some dye and magnifying glass to see if it is indeed a crack or only looks like one. 
Another choice may be to braze the crack.  Would talk to a few welding shops that specialize in repairs.  They may be able to do in place.  Still if you have to remove the strut new would be better. 
FWIW. I agree that the yard didn't give you the best advice.  Possibly they know that the repair is above their skill level but don't want to pass work to someone else.
Bill's advice talking to a prop shop is a good idea.  People hit things and damage to prop,strut and shaft are common. 
Jim

[Noah]

I second the exploratory grinding of the crack. I replaced my strut too hastily, thinking it was a victim of galvanic corrosion, because it appeared very pink. Turns out the corrosion was only "surface deep". How do I know? I cut it in half when removing it and found discovered it was bright solid metal! Unfortunately, it was too late. If I had done more than a surface grind on it first, I probably would not have needed to replace it. An expensive error on my part.

[scgunner]

Rees,

The yard aborted the job but did they get the old bearing out so you can check if the crack is full thickness? I agree with the others, You got bad advice and you need to bring in a specialist. Sounds like your yard guys are in over their heads.

Noah,

I've only got one word for you----OUCH!

[Noah]

Yeah, expensive lesson learned. But I am over the pain now. And I still love my boat! In the middle of my annual varnish touchup now. 

[Ron Hill]

rees : Noah has a great point .  Before you do anything see if you can determine the depth of the crack.  If it's surface - braze it over and watch it (is what I'd do!!)!!.

A thought

[Rees]

Rees,

The yard aborted the job but did they get the old bearing out so you can check if the crack is full thickness? I agree with the others, You got bad advice and you need to bring in a specialist. Sounds like your yard guys are in over their heads.

Noah,

I've only got one word for you----OUCH!

The boatyard aborted replacing the cutlass bearing as the force they were applying became great enough that they became concerned they might aggravate the crack.

[Noah]

Get rid of that "boatyard". The cutlass bearing should be pressed out with a proper tool, not hammered on—which could not only damage your strut but also your transmission. Strutpro makes a tool and there is also a good "home-made" version of the tool that many c34.org members have borrowed/shared/shipped among themselves to use. Not sure who had/has last but do a search on our website.

[Rees]

Thank all of you for your ideas on my cracked prop strut.  I would like to get this fixed as I don't want to be cruising around in a boat that might be like a time bomb waiting to breakdown.  However, I don't think that this requires immediate attention(??).  So while I am enjoying my new bottom paint and nicer weather coming, I will do some investigating:p; talk to the prop shop, see if I can find someone else to replace the cutlass bearing knowing that the crack is there. I'll also check if CD does still have the strut available. 

Thanks again to all!  I will report back with any new information.  FYI. I'm sorry it took so long for me to respond to your suggestions.  I discovered that my notifications were not turned on...

[KWKloeber]

definitely clean up and investigate the crack.
What harm will it do -- if the strut is cracked thru then you have "done no harm."

"...copper based materials like brass and bronze, are typically brazed with copper phosphorus silver alloys"

[Rees]

I wrote a long story here about the replacement of my strut but then I was forced to close the window down on my computer, while trying to load the a photo and lost the entire story. I'll be brief(er) now.  I took the advice given on this forum, asked experts and decided to replace my strut.  I could not find a boatyard within 50 miles to do the work so ended up in Port Townsend.  They originally estimated 15 hours to do the job. This turned into 35 hours after they chiseled through 4" of reinforced fiberglass to get the old strut out, found the new strut a fraction of an inch longer and with bolt holes that didn't match up had to realign the engine and drill new holes.  I now have a new prop strut.  Not only that but a bonus of an interesting piece of bronze yard art to show visitors!