Aqualift muffler

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 3 Guests are viewing this topic.

Jeff Kaplan

I will know view what Stu wrote up.  This help is just wonderful, such an awesome site, sharing ideas and suggestions
#219, 1986 tall rig/shallow draft. "sedona sunset" atlantic-salem,ma

Noah

#16
IMO- No need to apply any compound (let alone epoxy) around inlet or outlet, unless signs of deterioration or leaking. Also, you might be safer buying the longer hump hose and cutting it to whatever length is perfect to fit your boat? 
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

KWKloeber

Quote from: Noah on November 02, 2022, 06:30:08 PM
IMO- No need to apply any compound (let alone epoxy) around inlet or outlet, unless signs of deterioration or leaking. Also, you might be safer buying the longer hump hose and cutting it to whatever length is perfect to fit your boat?

Simply slathering on a thin layer of epoxy filler does not fix the problem.  Look at the wiki>engine>exhaust and the repair that Mark Hamilton did that I posted and shows the pitfalls of the OEM aqualift. 

How I reinforced my tubes:
When I removed my muffler because the bottom seam had failed (the first time) I noticed that the inlet tube had started to crush (ever so slightly.)
I happened to have a very thin-wall aluminum tubing that I saved from something I had scrapped out - I have no idea now what it was from. But the OD of the tubing was such that it was a press fit inside both tubes. So I cut off appropriate lengths and simply tapped it very gently inside each tube - no adhesive, no epoxy.  Nothing but a tight, press-fit.
One could buy the same tubing from McMaster.

I reinforced the bottom seam (but honestly it wasn't an aggressive attempt.)

Fast forward a couple years, and the bottom seam failed again. This time I was on a cruise so I asked the yard at the marina to take a look. They had a stainless can-type muffler that was from a Westerbeke W30 that fit perfectvvertically.  Had this happened while I was home I would have been more aggressive at cutting through the seam with the Dremel and doing a better repair reinforcing it but this worked out fine.

Tubes can crush from over tightening to stop stiff hose from leaking.  Silicone hose can help cuz it doesn't need to be cranked down as tightly to seal. 

The joint can crack where the inlet tube enters the muffler and "everyone" knows to use a hump hose on it.
Slathering on epoxy filler doesn't prevent those two failures.

Using a section of silicone hose on the exhaust tube (and a Centek coupling) addresses the outlet tube crushing due to over-tightening.
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Jeff Kaplan

KW,  I did read how Mark did the project and he did put west around the inlet to firmly hold the new tube in place.  I was just going to put some on for structural support so when I put the new hump on, less stress will be placed on the existing tube while wiggling on. Just in the planning stage now. I will not be touching the outlet, no need.
#219, 1986 tall rig/shallow draft. "sedona sunset" atlantic-salem,ma

Ron Hill

Jeff : To dispel your fears, the hump hose is made of a soft and very flexible material making it easy to install!!   :thumb:

A thought
Ron, Apache #788

Jeff Kaplan

Thank you Ron, I would flip out if I broke the inlet tube on install.  Maybe should put the hump on the inlet tube first then onto the riser, I'll see in the spring.  Thanks to all
#219, 1986 tall rig/shallow draft. "sedona sunset" atlantic-salem,ma

Ron Hill

Jeff : If you ever need to make hoses softer and more pliable just put them in some hot water for a short time before putting them in place!!

A thought
Ron, Apache #788

KWKloeber

Quote from: Jeff Kaplan on November 03, 2022, 06:09:47 AM

he did put west around the inlet to firmly hold the
new tube in place. 


Mark used West to glue the tube/reinforced collar ONTO the muffler.  All the strength is in the polyester (not epoxy) glass-reinforced "filler" he used to build the tube/collar assembly.

I took it that you were applying epoxy resin to strengthen the tube against crushing from the hose.

Nevertheless to strengthen the junction of the tube at the interface of the muffler, IMO the best way is to grind down the tube surface and build it back up with epoxy or polyester resin/carbon fiber, laying up thin strips vertically that fan out onto the top of the muffler. That would considerably reinforce against both stress at the tube/muffler interface and crushing from the clamps.

The centek mufflers are basically laid with a ton of glass in there which makes them virtually indestructible.
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain