Racor problems

[gwp]

Hull#568
I have a Racor R24P water separator which is probably original on my 88 C34. I have never completely understood this mysterious thing. It never has water in the bowl tho I have water and the resulting black snot that results which I am always fighting with biobor biocide treatment bc we don't run the M25XP enough. It has a plastic turnscrew on top which when unscrewed converts to some sort of pump which I don't understand. Today when the engine seemed to be starving for fuel and died, I shined a flashlight in the bowl and noticed tiny bubbles coming from the upper end of the bowl. I found that the engine runs better when I open the bleed screw  on the engine. Does this make sense? Guess the bleed screw is venting the small amount of air in the system? I think it might be time to replace this possibly 34 yo racor but if so, will any water separator be OK or is this one specific to this type engine? Any advice appreciated!

[Jon W]

For the 200R spin on series Racor, the pump on top your talking about is a priming pump. Next to it is a vent plug. Loosen the vent plug and operate the primer pump until a little fuel comes out of the vent. Then close the vent plug. Never use it myself. I fill the bowl with fuel or injector cleaner with the filter element in the bowl and screw it back on. Then I open the bleed screw on the engine slightly and start the engine. This process has was worked fine.

I have the smaller Racor 215R 15gph spin on which works fine. Sounds like you have the 220R 30gph spin on. Racor is considered a very good brand for this application, but not the only choice. There are different filter/water separator brands. If you have black sludge in the system, do yourself a favor and clean the fuel system before changing parts.

[Ron Hill]

gwp : A bunch of questions.  Here are a few answers.  I always left my bleed valve turned ON about 1/4 turn so I had a "Self Bleeding" system.  Those screws on the top of your Racor cover "finger pump" capability - if you didn't have an electric fuel pump to help bleed the system!!! 

A few thoughts

[gwp]

Thanks for that info. I think my problem is the air leak on the suction side of the system coupled with closing the bleed screw. Ron...are there any negative consequences of running all the time with an open bleed screw because the engine is not struggling when I crack it. There are so many plugs, valves, pumps, etc on this racor I feel sure that's where the air intrusion is. My electric pump is on the downstream (engine side) of the racor creating negative pressure on the racor. Thanks again

[Jim Hardesty]

I think my problem is the air leak on the suction side of the system

With what you've said, that would be my guess.   With factory changes/substitutions and changes by previous owners many fuel systems are unique.  It pays to know your own system well.  FWIW I had a similar problem at the start of my summer cruise, was the o-ring at the bottom drain plug that I never use or change.  I didn't have a spare   Luckly was able to dock at Vermillion Ohio where I knew a NAPA store was close and got an o-ring that was close enough.  Worst thing was the clean up.
The rest of the cruise, 62 days and many miles, was trouble free.
Jim

[Ron Hill]

gwp : I ran with the bleed valve cracked open for Many years - got the idea from the Westerbeke Service Rep.  Never had a problem!!
It looks to me that you are sucking in air from someplace on your Racor.  I'd change all of the gaskets (making sure they are seated correctly).  Go to an auto parts store and buy a box of assorted "O" rings - about $5. Also check the fuel inlet and output hose connections to make sure they are tight. 
I've found with some old hose connections, it's just best to remove and cut off an inch of hose to get a new good tight connection!

A few thoughts

[gwp]

Thx Ron. I do have tiny bubbles coming from upper section of bowl. Just hoping the problem is not from tank connection requiring that dreaded job of removing panel to access tank. First I will do what you suggested.