Shower Drain Pump Removal

[sselinger]

My 1990 MK 1 has a PAR 37202 pump for the shower drain. It has stopped working, motor still runs but no suction. It is located under the head sink and the only access is thru the door by the thru hull for the toilet, sink drain, and raw water inlet.
Access is very limited. I am wondering if anyone had removed this pump, and have an suggestions on how to do it. I have thought of removing the small holder for the t-paper and am wondering if that provides any better access.

[Stu Jackson]

Steve, you may have considered these already:

1.  take the door and frame off, makes the hole bigger, lots bigger

2.  check the check valve in the hose from the shower sump, it may be blogged, clogged or collapsed if it's the OEM Shurflo check valve; I replaced mine years ago

https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4114.msg33674.html#msg33674

[Noah]

Yes. On a MKl, it will help greatly to remove TP box. Also, consider installing a Beckson access port on your head bench for better access and storage space.
This pic. was taken while installing my Raritan Marine Elegance electric head. That is the raw water pump for it not my shower pump. You can't see shower pump in pic, but I have replaced it with a centrifugal pump.

[Ron Hill]

Steve : Do as Stu suggests and check that PAR one way valve -I'm sure it's clogged!! 

Look for my Mainsheet tech note article on Installing a Strainer (w/pictures) in that shower drain line.  You'd be surprised all of the "fuzzy Wazzys" that that strainer catches!! 

A thought

[Holger Dieske]

Ron, can I have a link to the MainSheet Note. I cant find it.

the ventil is on the line way pump-showerbottom and NOT pump-out seacock? Right?

Holger

[Stu Jackson]

Ron, can I have a link to the MainSheet Note. I cant find it.

Holger,

I believe Ron is referring to this one:

https://c34.org/mainsheet/pdf/1999_no1.pdf

How did I find it?  I used the Knowledgebase and did a search (ctrl-F) on shower, which led me to his Feb. 1999 Tech Note. 

Between that and my earlier links, they should explain it all.

I have often recommended that folks use the Knowledgebase to find Ron's articles.  He's written so many but never provides links.  Can't say I don't blame him since he's written so much for so long, but it can sometimes be frustrating.

Here's the How To on the Knowledgebase:

NEW!!!-Jan. '07 -: Tech Notes, Projects, and FAQ Articles KNOWLEDGEBASE & Index http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3362.0.html is also helpful.

[Noah]

You can also click on the "Master Index" link and scroll through list contents for each issue.
https://c34.org/master-index/

[Ron Hill]

Hogler : I looked thru the early 1987 -1999 and that article must be in the years 2000?  Probably in the mid 2000's ( I don't have those MS issues )

What I did was install a small PAR strainer ( 3"? high w/fine screen) in the 3/4" shower drain line just before a new one way valve (same line).  The PAR strainer has a screw ON dome so I calked the base to the hull.  That stopped ALL of the backflow and kept the one way valve clean!!  An easy fix!!

A few thoughts

[Holger Dieske]

... thx, danke @all!

Holger

[Roland Gendreau]

I have had my pump stop working because of debris fouling the check valves.  This year it stopped working because the rubber bladder in the pump (pulsation dampner) had a tear in it. I replaced the dampner but also put a piece of fine screening in the floor drain hole, to trap any hair or other debris. Removing and cleaning the screen peiodically is easy.

I found that reinstalling the pump is harder than removing it since you can get only one hand/arm in there.   I found that putting 2 of the screws in with the rubber grommets in their holes, and then fitting the pump to those points held the pump in place sufficiently so that I could put the third screw in.  Even with that, it took quite a few tries.

Roland

[Ron Hill]

Roland : A fine screen over the drain will also work to keep out the fuzz and hair from the one way valve and the pump itself; but the short PAR filter is really easy to install!! and easy to clean!!

A few thoughts

[Baysider]

My pump failed last year.  It's in the space inside the cabinet below the head sink and was a very heavy contraption, attached to a block of wood which was probably glued to the inside of the hull at one time.  This seems like an odd setup and I'm wondering where the pump is supposed to be secured?

[WTunnessen]

Mine failed 2 years ago and I replaced it with a Whale Gulper that I installed vertically on the inside wall. One advantage of the gulper pump is that the pump head where the in/out values are located can be rotated which helps some with the install. Also it can be installed vertically.  Getting the pump screwed in was tricky but with the toilet paper cabinet removed, at least you reach it from both sides.  The new pump is a big improvement and certainly quieter.  We use the shower a lot cruising in Maryland in the summer, so it's an important thing on our boat!

[Ron Hill]

Guys : The factory on the MK I's installed a diaphragm pump, but many of the owners after the original fails (or doesn't like the noise!!) have replaced that old pump with a rotary pump (like your fresh water system).

A thought

[Baysider]

Thanks for the suggestions.