J B Weld or filler for boom

[Jim Hardesty]

The second season with Shamrock I had a canvas fabricator modify the winter cover and improve the frame.  In doing so he allowed the head of a bolt to ride on the boom over winter and left a gouge, not a problem functionally, not very noticeable but still ugly.  Been using J B Weld on another project, worked great.  Thinking that would work well to fill the gouge.  The fix would be marginally functional, the first consideration would be appearance.  The information doesn't say much about the finish and the comments say it is darker than aluminum.    Should say my mast and boom are clear anodized.
Has anyone used a filler to repair aluminum?  What looked good?
Thanks,
Jim

[Stu Jackson]

Jim, I had an issue two years ago where JBWeld didn't work, but I found a product called Devcon that did.  Similar two part stuff.  I needed it to hold a stud on the engine, only had success with Devcon.  IIRC, came out gray.  Perhaps a more structural issue than yours, though.

[KWKloeber]

The information doesn't say much about the finish and the comments say it is darker than aluminum.    Should say my mast and boom are clear anodized.
Has anyone used a filler to repair aluminum?  What looked good?

Jim,

No experience on trying to make the JB finish off smooth (ultra fine sand it?) and polishing it up to match an anodized spar, but as far as color some options:
     Experiment mixing a speck of white tint into the JB Weld to match the shade of the spar.
     Ditto, mixing black tint into MarineTex.
     Ditto, mixing JBWeld with JB MarineWeld Syringe (white cure, not dark gray as in the tubes.)
     Ditto, mixing West epoxy resin/clear (special) hardener w/ microfibers & graphite additives.  (I have an open can of West graphite if you need some of it.)
     Hy-Poxy H-450 Alumbond is a light gray cure.
     Hy-Poxy H-259 Alumfast Aluminum Epoxy stick is gray.
     Loctite MetalMagic Stick is gray.
     Loctite Non-Slumping Aluminum Putty is gray.
     Star Brite Epoxy Aluminum Putty Stick is gray.

One could fill it using the low-temp aluminum "welding" stick (It's actually soldering w/ a propane torch -- Bernzomatic or Harbor Freight has them and there are examples on YouTube.)  I wouldn't think the "low" temp would hurt the anodizing but I would want to test a torch on something/somewhere inconspicuous or scrap.

[Noah]

One of the trickiest parts will be, no mater whatever "filler" you use, getting repair smooth—without scratching the surrounding anodization. Very careful taping and caution???

[Ron Hill]

Jim : You can saw up some aluminum and collect the filings.  Then mix the filings in some clear epoxy and fill that blemish.  Epoxy should dry smooth and/or you could use some wet/dry 1500 to finish it off.

A thought

[mark_53]

There a several types of JB Weld.  Chose which works best.
https://www.jbweld.com/our-videos

[KWKloeber]

Hey Jim

You didn't say exactly where the gauge is or how extensive. Is it such that adding a chafe protection (alum tape or stainless tape or 3M stainless wear pad, or something contrasting would look as if it belongs there?

[Jim Hardesty]

Ken,
The gauge was caused by a bolt head, it's at about 1-2 o'clock on the boom about 4 feet from the goose neck and 5/8 dia about 1/8 deep.  Thanks for the list of fillers with appearances, saved me a lot of looking.  My thinking now is to fill it and use a drop of aluminum paint to cover the repair.
Jim

[glennd3]

Jim, 

   Just a long shot but I just got a email from Practical Sailor in which they reviewed different types of tapes. I think you could use one of them for a temporary fix. Give me your email and I will forward it to you if you would like.

[KWKloeber]

https://www.practical-sailor.com/sails-rigging-deckgear/chafe-tape-plan