Refinishing handrails

[Dwainideus]

Instead of refinishing the teak handrails on the boat, and having to spend all the time taping and prepping, I thought there might be a better way.  By installing a "T" nut on underside of the rail which locks the screw in place, you create an assembly where the screw won't turn or push up, thereby taking away the necessity of having someone backup the screw when reinstalling.  I plugged the holes, sanded each plug flush, and varnished the rails while off the boat.  Solo re-installation on the boat was a breeze, wrapped each protruding screw with butyl tape, slid in place, installed the nuts and washers, and tightened.  No leaks!  And if I ever have to remove the rails, no drilling and removal of the teak plugs, just remove the nuts/washers on the inside of the boat and lift off.

[KWKloeber]

Kudos!  Brilliant

Another option I had described previously is to epoxy it in, turning it into a permanent stud.
Grind or file one side of the bolt thread flat to deform it.

Either method - countersink the cabin top to form the vee pocket for butyl to get forced down into and be compressed tight around the bolt.

[waughoo]

Pretty clever solution!  Only thing I might add is a few drops of blue locktite on the captive T nut JUST to be sure the screw doesnt move on you.

[scgunner]

Dwainideus,

That's a great idea, very creative. A better idea might be to replace the teak handrails with stainless steel, they never need to be removed or refinished.

[waughoo]

Scgunner...

I have been thinking about this very solution muself.  The only issue I have run into is the holes in the deck.  Making a stainless rail with all the same standoffs as the wooden one ends up creating something that looks like prison bars.  The alternative is a LOT of patching of fiberglass and gelcoat which seems like a lot of work for the trade.

[Ron Hill]

Dwain : Nice Job!! 

For those thing about doing what Dwain did - I'd use both epoxy around the bolt head,crush the threads and blue locktight on the inside thread!!    "belt and suspenders" to make sure that bolts NEVER turns!!!

A thought

[KWKloeber]

The alternative is a LOT of patching of fiberglass and gelcoat which seems like a lot of work for the trade.

"Screw" the gelcoat repair.  I'd just blind them.  A finish washer and oval head or low-profile carriage head bolt in every other hole on deck.  No one will really notice them and from below there's nothing to reference that the nuts shouldn't be there.  Or thru-bolt the s/s handrail on top of a thin stainless bar that hides the filled/unused holes? Underneath, use a finish washer/screw to cover each hole.
Some things just don't warrant the time/effort of going "all the way" vs. the alternative (going sailing)! 

[waughoo]

I thought about the every other, but they arent an even number of legs ( or whatever would allow for skipping every other intermediate).  I do like the stainless platform idea though. Hummmmm....

[Dwainideus]

Pretty clever solution!  Only thing I might add is a few drops of blue locktite on the captive T nut JUST to be sure the screw doesnt move on you.

"T" nuts have spikes that embed/drive themself into the wood, don't think they would ever turn.  You just have to recess the teak about 1/8" or so to get the nuts flush with the bottom of the rail.

[Ron Hill]

Guys : What I did to mine after I took them off for refinishing was to cut a slot in bottom of the screw.  Then when I put them back on I could start the nut on the inside and put a common screwdriver in the slot so I could tighten the nut and the screw couldn't turn!!

A thought

[KWKloeber]

Pretty clever solution!  Only thing I might add is a few drops of blue locktite on the captive T nut JUST to be sure the screw doesnt move on you.

"T" nuts have spikes that embed/drive themself into the wood, don't think they would ever turn.  You just have to recess the teak about 1/8" or so to get the nuts flush with the bottom of the rail.

Missing the point. The nut turning isn't the issue.  Put an acorn nut below on the bolt and overtighten it - the bolt will back out upwards, out of the tee nut.  After that happens the only way to try to retighten it is to double nut it (if there's enough length below) and tighten it back up ('er ...or down as the case may be.)

[KWKloeber]

A better idea might be to replace the teak handrails with stainless steel, they never need to be removed or refinished.

OR PlasTeak - no maintenance, traditional look.

[mark_53]

A better idea might be to replace the teak handrails with stainless steel, they never need to be removed or refinished.

OR PlasTeak - no maintenance, traditional look.

Or buy the rail covers from Catalina Direct and never finish again.  Will look great when you sell her.

[LogoFreak]

Stealing! Looks great!

[scgunner]

Alex,

You raised some good questions about replacement stainless steel rails. I'll see if I can answer those for you. First number of rail supports and spacing, I used half the number of supports as the teak and you're right it comes out uneven. I spaced them evenly from the middle to the ends. The supports are close at the ends so it looks like it was designed that way for extra support at the ends. Filling the holes was a snap, West System with some color pigment. The color doesn't have to be exact because the fixes are hidden in the diamond deck and under the rail. What you wind up with is a cleaner updated look that's maintenance free that sheds water much better and has half the number of holes in your boat.

Another plus is rail covers, you don't need them! When I had teak rails I used covers and like the teak they were just one more thing that needed to be maintained plus they need to be replaced along with the rest of your boat covers and they're not cheap.

Hey, I get it some guys like the classic look of teak and even like or at least don't mind expending the time and effort to maintain the teak. I'm not one of those guys! I'm more of a set and forget it kind of guy. I've found the less time I spend on maintenance the more time I spend on the water.